First build! Graflex 2.0 (ESB) w/CF9

[Gregatron]

Greetings! This is my very first FX saber build. I’ve done a good number of static props, over the years, but I decided to finally jump into the deep end and build a proper FX saber. East Coast Sabers’ “How to Build a Graflex” tutorial series was both an inspiration and an invaluable learning tool, but those videos feature a Nano Biscotte install, not a Crystal Focus, so I can’t just follow along with that tutorial step-by-step. I chose CF because of its flexibility, its motion sensitivity, and its sound bank capacity. I intend this to be a fairly simple build, though.

Anyway, I acquired a Graflex 2.0 and various parts from WannaWanga, The Graflex Shop, and KR sabers to accurize it. I’ve finished the bulk of the prep work with the inner core, but I got a little overeager, and my first attempt at installing the electronics went wrong, somehow. I had a CF8 board, and soldered it to the TCSS 7.4v 18650 battery, but something went wrong. When I tried to charge the battery, the battery charger light turned green as soon as I plugged it in, with no functionality whatsoever in the board. I’m not sure what went wrong. I also made the stupid mistakes of epoxying the recharge port (which I didn’t realize was designed to screw into place until later) into my Goth3D chassis (Padawan Graflex 2.0 model), and soldering the wires onto the CF board from the wrong side, initially, with the result being that the board sat upside-down on the chassis, and so the chassis wouldn’t slide into the Graflex’s bottom half, because the SD slot was obstructing things.

I also think I may have somehow damaged the board, in desoldering then resoldering the wires on the correct (bottom) side. After totally freaking out, I bit the bullet, and got a new 3D-printed chassis, speaker, and recharge port, as well as upgrading to a CF9 board. I’ll deal with the old CF8 board at a later date, and maybe another build. I’m still not sure what the deal was with my first attempt—why the charger indicated a full battery, or what went wrong. My multimeter wasn’t much help, since the speaker and recharge port were already permanently in place. LESSON ONE: Don’t install until you’re sure everything works!


I’m by no means an electronics expert, but I have basic knowledge and experience with soldering. I just went too far too fast, and made a mistake somewhere. I’d appreciate the help of the learned people in this form to help me avoid any further mistakes. In theory, this build is in the final stages, but I’m going slowly (and now taking the step of joining this forum to have feedback from the experts). As it stands, I have the LED module (Tri-Cree BBW) wired up, as well as some 5ohm/5w resistors ready to go. I presume that my resistor calculations are correct (the Blue LEDs are rated at a forward voltage of 1000ma at 3.4v, and the White at 1000ma at 3.15v). That would require one resistor for each LED at 4.7ohms/4.7w, yes?


I do have a question about CF9’s FoC feature. If I read the manual right, it seems that a resistor would be required for the white LED die. However, research indicates that a resistor might not be necessary, given that the FoC LED would only be in operation for short bursts at a time. And, according to the manual, the board has a footprint for a 2512/2W resistor. Should I go to the trouble of adding such a resistor to the board, or adding a resistor at all?


Also, I’m still deciding on whether to have a clamp card aux switch, or a red button aux switch. My activation will be in the clamp, but it would be nice to have dual aux switches—one in the clamp, and one in the red button. Is that doable? Or will I have to choose one or the other? My research hasn’t clearly indicated if the board can be wired with two aux buttons or not.


Any advice or warning about potential pitfalls would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.

Here’s where the build stands. A heavy static replica (still temporarily sporting the stock clamp card), without its beating CF heart! More photos as I make progress.

B3DF0FA6-2CB9-405F-8664-84024CDC90BC.jpg

[Tom Tilmon]

CF may have been a bit much to chew for your first build, but sounds like your neck deep in it already.

Prism 5.1 has 6 fonts, 3 LED channels, and 3.7 volts, aux features. That probably would have been a bit easier on a first timer. I don't wire CF boards, so hopefully someone will be along that can help you with the resistor calcs on the 7.4v board.

You can do a dual aux switch. Say like you make one of the wires on your red button switch yellow, and the other one black. Run them to your clamp card switch, and then run a yellow and black off of the clamp switch to continue on to your board. That way, either switch can momentarily send a signal that it has been depressed. I have done that, although it was dual power switches.

Make sure you have the RC Port wired correctly. It might be a good idea to mock up your entire saber wiring design outside the saber to test things out. Then do your install. I have built a bunch of Graflex 2.5s. I have built 2 with NBIV, 2 with Prism, and currently working on 2 Teensy Neopixels with metal Goth3D Master. Its definitely a cool little package, and yes, East Coast Sabers Vids are awesome! Big help. Especially if you use a NBIV! You must be a glutton for punishment.

Tom

[Tom Tilmon]

I wasn't very clear on that switch wiring. Imagine the wire, each individual wire running through the clamp switch to the red button switch. One yellow wire and one black wire on each switch. Those wires are each one continuous wire from your board to the clamp switch and continuous wire.

[Gregatron]

So, one positive/negative going from the board, then branching out to each switch. A sort of “double-y” wire configuration?

[Tom Tilmon]

I'm showing a NBIV here, but you get the picture, my 3rd grade drawing-style picture. Since I cannot seem to convey in words what you need to do. On the crystal focus you have 3 switch pads: Main, Ground, and Aux. You said you wanted 2 Aux switches. So, in my drawing here of 2 Aux switches, one in the clamp, and one in the red button: GND is the black wire, although it really doesn't matter, but that is how I wire mine. My GND switch wire is black. The wire that goes to the aux pad is orange here. So, as I said, imagine one continuous orange wire running though clamp switch pole to red button switch pole. Then one continuous black wire going to opposite switch pole, and continuing on to the opposite red button pole. It doesn't matter then which switch is depressed, the processor will recognize that one has been depressed and generate the appropriate reaction.

So on the CF9, the Orange wire goes to Aux Switch Pad, and the Black wire to your GND pad on the 3 Switch pad array. Your main switch goes to Main Pad and GND pad, just like the directions say.



Hopefully that helps.

Tom

[MasterStoddard]

So, one positive/negative going from the board, then branching out to each switch. A sort of “double-y” wire configuration?

That is for the ground wire only on the The CFv9, working with a v8 myself and have the "y" for ground wire from the board to both switches (testing with tactile momentary at the moment).

EDIT: Didn't see that you were trying for two aux switches or that somebody else had mentioned trying that option.

[Gregatron]

Yeah, the diagram makes sense. Thanks! Meanwhile, I wired up the battery to the recharge port. I’m waiting on an SMD resistor for the FoC, but I may wire the board to the speaker and battery in the meantime, as well as work on getting the switches all wired up. I also wired the LEDs and installed them into the heat sink.

I can’t really test each component, aside from checking for continuity with the multimeter, so I’m nervous! I really don’t want to wire everything up only to have it not work and not know where the problem is. In theory, everything should be wired up correctly, so far. My main concern is with getting everything to properly fit. The resistors for the blue LED dies are pretty big, and space is tight inside the upper area of the blade holder, since the 7.4v battery extends pretty far into it. I may have to cut down my blade plug so that the heat sink can sit higher inside the blade plug.

[Tom Tilmon]

I'm not that familiar with CF, but can you put a SMD resistor anywhere below the battery? Like on your board? Or, if not, can you bring your resistor lower into the hilt? I would think the Padawan chassis has more room for "stuff" in it than the Knight/Masters do. I have built 4 Knights (all with 3.7 V boards), and I'm currently working on a Master Chassis (in metal) with TeensyV3. I wish I knew the layout of the Padawan for Graflex a bit better. I do have a Padawan here for a DV6, and in looking at it you should be able to bring your blue resistor down the hilt to avoid having to lose any more blade socket to your LED Module/Heat Sink.

Is there room on your LED star for a SMD Resistor on the pad? You could sneak half the SMD on your blue pad, and wire to the opposite pole on the SMD resistor. All that would be really small stuff, micro soldering, but that would save the room you need. That wire connection would be chincy on the SMD resistor but there usually isn't much wire strain up there, particularly since you are using a fixed chassis. I'd be more creative with your resistor on that blue line versus losing more blade socket. Good luck!!!

Tom

[Gregatron]

I still need to play around with the available space. I think avoiding SMD resistors on the board/star would be the best way to go. I haven’t done too much test-fitting, but it does look like the chassis has enough room for the resistors on either side of the battery. These resistors are huge—nearly an inch long. The first 5ohm/5w resistors I got (from TCSS) we’re far too chunky, and so I had to search to find slimmer, more cylindrical ones. Looks like keeping them in the chassis might be the best way to go, so as to have enough from in the blade socket for the battery, the red button wires, and the LED wires.

As noted, the board has a pad for an SMD resistor, specifically for the FoC effect, so I’ll be going with that, for space reasons. As long as I don’t screw it up! I’m already paranoid enough that I’ve made a critical mistake that I have yet to discover, but slow and steady wins the race. Thanks again for the info/advice.

[Gregatron]

...so, I soldered up the LED resistors (minus the white FoC, which is still in the mail), and the wires for the double aux switches. However, test fitting everything in the blade holder has been problematic. The wires are relatively thick, and getting everything to fit properly will be a challenge.

I had initially planned on using magnet wire for all of the wiring, since it’s so thin, but was worried that the wire might not be able to handle the voltage. I ended up using 26 gauge wire.

So, the wiring is really too thick to sit alongside the heat sink and the battery inside the blade holder. Magnet wire should do the trick, but I wouldn’t want to use wiring to small for the current being employed.

In theory, I’m wondering if I could just switch out the 26 gauge red button wire for super-thin magnet wire. Everything else should fit with the 26 gauge, although it’ll be tight. I’d rather not disassemble everything just to switch out all the wiring for a smaller gauge. I’m not wiring anything to the board until I’m sure the fit is right. Thoughts?