Recharge port hookup

[erv]

if you wired the recharge port using the 3 pins of it, as described in my tutorial, inserting a male plug in the recharge port will cut the power to the board. This will happend when you insert a real charging plug from a charger or inserting a "kill plug" (like the one TCSS now sells, or any dumb male plug fitting the recharge port)

Erv'

[LAN-ED-TUL]

if your not using a board for anything, but just buckpucks drove right off the recharge batts, would you still need the kill plug? im fixin to redo my jedi hilt with a recharge pack and a port in the insert part in the pommel. i got a kill plug from here. but i just have a 700 mah puck driving my Lv Green led. and im assuming the diagram at the first is the way i would wire it up with the exception that the wires going off the port would be ground to puck ground, hot to switch, then on over to puck hot?


that correct?

[Do-Clo]

Lan you would not need to use the kill plug option because you would use the main power switch to turn the power on and off to the buckpuc. I would however make a cool looking plug to insert into the charging port so that it doesn't look like a charging port when the saber is displayed.

I did this on a Kit Fisto I just finished and it looks great.

[Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie]

Bumping this thread because I need some clarification.

I got my CF yesterday. After I did a little happy dance in front of the mail box, I brought it home and started wiring it up. I have most of it figured out, but I have a question where the recharge port is concerned.

The diagram in the second post in this thread shows the recharge port breaking the circuit between the battery pack negative, and the board negative.

I'm reading through the CF user's manual, and the wiring diagrams show the port breaking the positive circuit between the battery and the board.

Which is correct? Does it matter?

[erv]

Cutting the positive is generally what you do with a general power switch or "general" switch.
For the recharge port, however, it's the negative you cut.
I appologize for some undetailed things in the manual, I *know* I have to rework some illustrations and include some of the tutorials in the user's manual but I'm just out of time.

[Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie]

Thank you, sir!

That's all I need to know. (For now...)

[Phiily Manyaan]

Hi. I've read through this whole thread and it seems everyone is discussing how to connect it to a board, but I want to use it with two buckpucks and no board of any sort. I'm going off of what I believe is Arm on Fire's diagram of using two pucks with a JoeJedi/616 board. I understand I would wire the battery connector to the port, and from those same leads, wire the + and - to the electronics. Would one of these (+?) go to the resistor and the other (-) to the LED? I'm just inserting it into the TCSS starter electronics kit, but replacing the resistor with two pucks. While I'm here, do I wire black to black, red to red, blue to blue, and white to white on the pucks with black being the (-)?

[LAN-ED-TUL]

there was a simple diagram pic posted showing the basic dbl parallel wiring of 2 pucks. i did mine that way, and my switch wa cut into the hot lead off the battery. if i remember right, the recharge port wires into the system before the switch, on the battery side.

you have batt hot, going to port and from port to switch, then to the hot leads of pucks.

the neg batt lead goes to recharge port, then on to the neg lead of pucks.

yes, the pucks wire together matching the wires colors. red/red blue/blue white/white. so on and so forth. simply wire the matching wires then add the led wires to the right places, and the switch lead, and neg lead.

pretty simple setup.

[Phiily Manyaan]

Will I end up using all of the wires on the buckpucks? It looks like there are a million of em. I should probably also ask whether this setup works with an SPST switch (the one from the starter kit), I can understand how I would wire it, I've just always seen DPDT's in the diagrams.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

no, just the red and black and blue and white ones. the control wires i dont use. thats mainly for a dimmer potentiometer of sorts.