Recharge port hookup

[erv]

I'm late for posting here, many aspects have been covered.
I'm however pointing a few things :
- I have a customer who told me he had troubles with wiring the recharge port with the kill switch using one of TCSS port. I remember corbin told me a long time ago that the current stock was not working as a kill switch. Just would like to make sure that there is no doubt now.

- while it does not really matter to have the kill switch topology for a resistor + luxeon setup, you NEED it as soon as you have an electronic device inside. Maybe not for a buck puck, if it resists to hight voltage but... a charger chops current and voltage for charging batteries. If you apply that to the board AND to the pack, the board might "start" and fool the current measurement of the charger which might... send even more and fry the board. NiMH are charged with current (with voltage monitoring), but voltage output by such a charger can go above 12V, which is the limit of CF.
In anycase, my "dumb engineer" point of view is WHY NOT putting a kill switch since it's very easy. If you answer "because my hilt is too small", then give us a favor : spend more money at TCSS and buy a new hilt (enginners have a really particular way of solving certain problems... ask me how much is 1+1, I'll ask you how much do you want it to be).
I haven't invented anything : this wiring / topology is WHAT IS USED in any electronic system that has an embeded recharge port (when the smart charger isn't internal). Same idea for cutting the speakers of your laptop when you insert your headphones in the side minijack female plug.

- the kill plug : neophyl was using little plastic parts he found here and there. I was machining some in PVC (takes ages). Not that I don't trust using a real recharge plug that you cut, but I prefer the safer way with something totally made of plastic. Casting is a solution as corbin said. On my side, I stopped proposing them cause I don't have the time to machine them, it takes me 15 minutes to make 2.

[Novastar]

Agreed on what the material of the kill plug should be... NON-METAL.

I've had nothing but trouble in the distant past (like 2006) when I tried metal kill plugs, or ones with a little metal. Just avoid it altogether.

And yes, Erv is correct... there is no reason NOT to use a kill switch of some sort if you are going with rechargeable batteries. It also stands to reason: what would you rather screw up? The cells... or the => $100 board? Protect your board... whatever it is.

You can always replace cells. As of this message--you CANNOT always replace an Ultrasound nor Crystal Focus. Duh.

[Count Malik]

I here ya there Nova might get me some pvc and machine it when I get the jack so I can see when it will fit. Thanks, this helped me out alot. Because with CF don't you need to re-boot the saber if you are using different colors that have differint voltages?

[Dark Navel]

OK..I am a pic person>>>Either I need sleep or I'm dumb...OK, both. I am getting Corbins board in the next few days and I don't want to fry it.

I see where to connect the recharge port but I'm not sure if I can piggyback on the exisitng wires that I have in the pic.

Where can I hook the recharge port to? can someone help me out and either fininsh the recharge port connectors or let me know if I can piggyback off of the existing wires?

When it says to the board and the battery pack can I piggyback off of the wire shown or should I have 2 seperate wires:1 to the board and the other to the battery pack.

[Lord Sceleris]

Ok I know this is a nuub question, but I just want to make sure I got this straight...if I am going to use a buck puck...it would go in place of the corbin board in the above diagram correct?

I only ask because all the diagrams I have see to date include a corbin board and not a buck puck

Also with the corbin momentary board, I use a push to make switch for primary power correct? Or would that make the blade just turn on while the button was pushed...making sure I am grasping this stuff...

thank you

[Dark Navel]

hasid put up some nice diagrams in another post...Just search around, you can't miss it. As for the power switch if you just want a single power switch go with a momentary SPST switch. You need this switch when you are using a Hasbro board for sound. These switches don't hold in place once you press them..If you depress the button/plunger it will stay down..yuou don't want that kind. You want it when you press the button it "clicks" but comes right back to the original position it was in.

[Novastar]

I here ya there Nova might get me some pvc and machine it when I get the jack so I can see when it will fit. Thanks, this helped me out alot. Because with CF don't you need to re-boot the saber if you are using different colors that have differint voltages?

*NO*. Be very careful with "hot-swapping" LEDs with CF that have widely differing voltages!

In general, ALWAYS "cold" reboot CF (kill switch/unplug batteries) when changing out an LED.

ESPECIALLY if you're swapping (for example) a Luxeon V (6.85vf) with a Luxeon III or K2 (@3.9vf). Even if you maintain any "ledcurrent" settings... you may have a voltage issue that you simply don't want to mess with.

Again... as a general rule... do NOT "hot-swap" LEDs with CF... that is just a bad idea, unnecessary, and dangerous for your LED. Granted, you only lose something like $10 to $25 if you blow one of those LEDs... but... still.

[DACOTA]

Listen to Nova. You will listen to Nova.[ Jedi mind trick]

[Gunk]

OK, so if I have a recharge port in the bottom of my hilt....can I still use a button to put saber on/off? or will the key do that?

[Novastar]

It depends on how you wire it up.

But in short... you can wire a saber up any way you like. YOU are in control of the circuit layout... not the other way around!