Recharge port hookup

[Hasid Lafre]

Something like this would be neat.

http://www.plecterlabs.com/catalog/p...products_id=41
http://www.plecterlabs.com/catalog/p...products_id=40
http://www.plecterlabs.com/catalog/p...roducts_id=111


Maybe something where we can screw them into something and attach them to our hilt for other decoration.

[Darth Morbius]

I just bought some PVC tubing yesterday that's almost perfect. It fits snugly over the center pin of the 2.5mm ports and easily over the 2.1mm pins. It cuts power to both when inserted. I just need to add some sort of cap to the tube and it should be good. I'm looking into that now.

Corbin

If I may interject here. Why not these cone knobs for Tie pilot chest boxes?

On the right halfway down... I'm using them for a Luke ROTJ V2 Kill key. They are threaded on the underside. Thread a piece of PVC with a die set and epoxy it into the knob's thread...

http://www.elvistrooper.com/tiekit.htm

[xwingband]

I was actually the one that sent that link to killphil and I'm using it for the kill key on his hilt.

I cut down one of erv's kill keys to fit inside the threaded hole and then glued it in. Works fantastically. The reason I opted for it going inside the threaded hole instead over the 8-32 screw is that I wanted as flush as possible. There is very little threads going over... the way I did it too there is absolutely no metal near the port itself.

I'm not sure if that's what you meant because there isn't exactly an easy way outside of machining to put the threads on the outside of any PVC.

[Darth Morbius]

That's pretty much the idea Xwing.

Yeah Killphil mentioned you gave him the link for those knobs.

That's actually a bettersolution than attempting to thread the knob on the pvc, a dab of epoxy will help seat it in permanently.

[TorLinWaDur]

anybody have an actually picture of the whole set up;
LED, resistor, switch, recharger port, and battery ???

i mean the diagrams are great, but id like to see the whole picture.

[Corbin_Das]

anybody have an actually picture of the whole set up;
LED, resistor, switch, recharger port, and battery ???

i mean the diagrams are great, but id like to see the whole picture.

I had a circuit just like that sitting out on my table a couple nights ago. Now it's inside a saber though. The trouble with live pictures of wiring is it's often hard to see where evrything is hooked up, especially on sometyhing like a recharge port, unless it's a closeup of just that.


Corbin

[xwingband]

I thought I would post this because of issues I've had and other sabers. On Erv's board if the switches have power flowing through them it finds a way to do funky crap.

Simple but not always evident: CUT POWER TO EVERYTHING. This is done by having the port be FIRST in the loop from the batteries.

[Novastar]

X to the Z is absolutely right. Wherever possible--when using a kill switch (and for applications other than "simple" direct drive/resistor setups)...

1st item = Batteries
2nd item = Kill switch or kill + recharge
... whatever you want after that.

DO NOT allow other components in there until AFTER the "killed" leads.

In fact, I recommend killing BOTH positive AND negative leads using a port/switch that essentially works like this (for example):

Pin 1: Ground
Pin 2: + lead to batteries (for example)
Pin 3: + lead to board
Pin 4: - lead to batteries
Pin 5: - lead to board

Inserting the plastic/nylon/NON-conductive kill pin/key will sever connections 2 & 3... and ALSO 4 & 5.

Why be redundant? Well... it means there is ABSOLUTELY NO WAY any current of any kind... can reverse flow... cause a momentary short... etc. Also--if ONE of the lead cuts fails for any reason... hopefully at least the OTHER will be good.

I say this myself because I was just experimenting with some kill pins that cut only one lead... we're having problems already. Sometimes they work--sometimes, they don't QUITE cut the circuits. On my previous ones... they work fine, cutting both leads.

Great post, X...

[Kamurah]

Thought I'd offer up a 0.2$ here....

I just this weekend customized one of Erv's kill plugs with....of all things.....a chrome valve cap that goes on an automobile tire.

Cut off a bit of the bottom to make it the same size as the 'extruded' part of the plug, ....add a bit of hot glue.....voila, a nice decorative cap.

Looks good and not too expensive.

Cheers

[xwingband]

Ummm... I'm an idiot. Switch the green and black up there. It causes it to not charge but it kills fine. I made the pic off my head and didn't check.

Principle is good... execution... poor.

Thinks like that freak you out when you have little sleep and need to finish a saber in a few hours because they're going to come pick it up.

EDIT: I typo'd FINKY! I must have been on something when I drew that. Proof I borked it right there...