Recharge port hookup

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Yes, there is an advantage to not using the holder....holders are spring contact, and hard impacts on the saber can cause the battery to momentarily lose contact, rebooting the sound board. Using a battery with the JST connector and an opposite JST on the recharge port will still allow you to remove and replace a depleted battery if you want the option.

[Miraluka]

Thanks. That makes sense. I just wanted to know if there was some reason that you couldn't do it, or if people just preferred not to.

[iainm]

This is an excellent tutorial. I've been scouring this and other sites for tutorials on how to connect all the parts for my saber. I still don't know how and where to attach the ready-wired latching switch with LED I bought from TCSS. Please show me how to wire these parts together: 3.7 Volt battery, Green Rebel Star, resistor, recharge port, pre-wired Long Latching Switch.

I live on the other side of the world from you guys. With a minimum of $50 shipping costs mistakes are expensive to correct. I have read all the "Noobs please read" material. It was good for my first, simple sabers, but does not help with something as complex as this.

Got some help from my step son, a nuclear physicist. The LED works. The LED in the latching switch works. But when you put them all together the main LED does not work. Is the latching switch AC? It says AC on the side, but that might be part of the serial number. It could be as simple as the on/off switch being defective. Will need to try other basic switches to verify this. But HOW do I connect the latching switch to the circuit? What am I missing?



Thanks

[Silver Serpent]

We'd need to see your wiring diagram to troubleshoot your issue. That being said, with the components you have listed, you won't be able to just plug things together. The prewired latching switch is designed to hook up to a sound board or a prewired BuckPuck.

You can still make it work, but you'll need to break out your soldering iron. Try to make up a wiring diagram, and we'll take a look at it. Or search the boards for wiring diagrams. There are many available.

[JoeEatsZombie]

i have looked threw this thread and i dont know if my question is being answered but
im following this build all the same components
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOpU...8aP7sjJBPuNbPg
except i would like to use a av switch. seeing as how this build is for a removable 18650 and not a wired rechargeable
id like assistance on how to adapt a av switch with a kill key seeing as how the switch led would always be on . i dont need this to recharge i just need it to kill powere is there any diagram or tutorial that follows this

[Jay-gon Jinn]

The switch led doesn't always have to be on, if you wire it correctly. Use the appropriate resistor for your battery source and wire the switch led in parallel with the blade led. This will make the switch led only light up when the blade is lit.

[JoeEatsZombie]

The switch led doesn't always have to be on, if you wire it correctly. Use the appropriate resistor for your battery source and wire the switch led in parallel with the blade led. This will make the switch led only light up when the blade is lit.

i got that a similar answer to a slightly unrelated question from tcss . i think i might go this route . its seems like less trouble then wiring and drilling the hilt for a power jack that's only function is a kill port.
i only realized now though that if i have the switch led in parallel with the blade led that id need one resister instead of two.
i knew the individual resisters id need but i dont know which one id need now that the plan has changed. do you happen to know off hand which resister id need for this build . i am using luxeon rebel star lime and a 12mm av green.
and would you know of an existing thread that has the schematic for this particular build on a nano b.

[Miraluka]

Rather than using a recharge port exclusively for a kill key, why not just use a little latching kill switch?

[JoeEatsZombie]

that doent seem like a bad idea either . i think for this build i might just run the 2 leds in parallel these are my fist 2 sabers im building
but defiantly not my last i might try that on my next build. how ever with my experience with my saberforge acolyte its ever too easy to just bush the button while holding it id hate to have an exposed latching switch that will kill the power while im swinging it around

[Miraluka]

Well, there are options like slide switches or rotary switches that wouldn't be so easy to accidentally bump off but whatever you've comfortable with.