yeah I did thank you.
wait I just noticed, so the hasbro boards do need the momentary not the latching then?
yeah I did thank you.
wait I just noticed, so the hasbro boards do need the momentary not the latching then?
Last edited by Lord Maul; 02-17-2010 at 11:02 PM.
Yes, Hasbros (cheapy ones) need a momentary switch. The Hasbro FX sabers take a latching though.
Aluke123 on every other forum - Old grumpy moderator here
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Ah ha I see. So then since I think my wife is going to surprise me with one a those I'm gonna have to get a momentary switch then. Thanks.
TCSS doesn't have those battery packs in the store anywhere that I could see. I want one, but where do I go/ how do I make one. Also does that pack save space compared to the spring type plastic battery holder?
There's a thread in this board called "battery pack making". Follow that to build a pack. It saves a bit of space as compared to a plastic battery holder.
Aluke123 on every other forum - Old grumpy moderator here
Thread Index, The Saber Building Dictionary, and The Basic Saber-Build Tutorial - Read Them!
I really really like the 2 AA size holder with the speaker and sound board mount. Huge space saver.
I do the 2 AA holder with the board epoxied to it and the speaker on the bottom with Tim's speaker mount. I like the set up, but if I use a battery pack then could I put a recharge port on the opposite side of the sound card? (that's my hope since I have little vertical space in my saber.)
Nope. The charge port goes too deep into the hilt.
This Jedi Ranger has a name....Terek Kelrune. Don't forget it.
Is there a schematic that shows how to hook up accent leds to a MR/Hasbro anikan rots board, that will activate when the kill key is pulled?
Just wire the LED from the + and board - of the recharge port with the appropriate resistor.
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