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Thread: What kind of LED is this?

  1. #11

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    Here you go...I hope I'm wrong (it usually works on my favor when I am).
    I included a side cutaway view with measurement from calipers. Granted, I've only wired up 3 sabers but I've never had an issue with not being able to fit a heatsink.
    Hoping you guys see something I am missing..If not I could always do a neopixel...

    BTW, In first picture I removed the top of the crystal chamber to fit the led in there..
    inside.jpgthaiSC.jpg
    Last edited by deviltronix; 03-20-2018 at 03:46 PM.

  2. #12

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    It might not be ideal, but if you mounted a tri Cree on on a heatsink with a center hole and glued the lens to the LED you could mount the LED in the blade socket. The inserted blade would surround the LED & lens, so the back of the blade would need to be open and the diffusion material would need to be glued down about an inch into the blade. You could also do the same thing with a 7/8" heatsink module, but you'd additionally need to sand down the inside of the end of the blade so it would fit over the module. You would definitely want to plug up the blade with some tack cloth to keep the dust out and clean it very carefully. Lastly, you could just make a pixel blade. You'd need to find and adapt a connector that fit in that 12mm hole, but they do exist.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by jbkuma View Post
    It might not be ideal, but if you mounted a tri Cree on on a heatsink with a center hole and glued the lens to the LED you could mount the LED in the blade socket. The inserted blade would surround the LED & lens, so the back of the blade would need to be open and the diffusion material would need to be glued down about an inch into the blade. You could also do the same thing with a 7/8" heatsink module, but you'd additionally need to sand down the inside of the end of the blade so it would fit over the module. You would definitely want to plug up the blade with some tack cloth to keep the dust out and clean it very carefully. Lastly, you could just make a pixel blade. You'd need to find and adapt a connector that fit in that 12mm hole, but they do exist.
    You are very kind for these suggestions, thank You!! If I keep it, I'll probably go the pixel blade route

    BTW, got this picture from another user with same hilt..their hole is 25mm/1" (with a lip seperating blade socket and led socket) so they definitly goofed on miinecomparison.jpg

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by jbkuma View Post
    . You'd need to find and adapt a connector that fit in that 12mm hole, but they do exist.
    Could you point me in the right direction for this? Thanks

  5. #15

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    I just measured, the black plastic side of a gx-16 aviation connector should fit in the hilt side, and a the metal part would fit in the blade side. You should be able to find these with a minimal effort.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by deviltronix View Post
    Here you go...I hope I'm wrong (it usually works on my favor when I am).
    I included a side cutaway view with measurement from calipers. Granted, I've only wired up 3 sabers but I've never had an issue with not being able to fit a heatsink.
    Hoping you guys see something I am missing..If not I could always do a neopixel...

    BTW, In first picture I removed the top of the crystal chamber to fit the led in there..
    inside.jpgthaiSC.jpg
    You can easily use that 5mm of space for a flat disc as a heat sink to mount the LED on, what heat it doesnt soak up will be transferred to the hilt. 12mm will not cut any of the light off, but you may want to trim the lens somehow to fit inside the 12mm hollow part so you can still focus it.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by PCModulus View Post
    You can easily use that 5mm of space for a flat disc as a heat sink to mount the LED on, what heat it doesnt soak up will be transferred to the hilt. 12mm will not cut any of the light off, but you may want to trim the lens somehow to fit inside the 12mm hollow part so you can still focus it.
    Thanks for your input! I may try this...Should I try to keep the lens as close to the led as possible or does it not matter?
    I also may try the Luke ROTJ saber method where they use 7/8ths heatsink and heatsink is basically inside the base of blade when its installed.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by deviltronix View Post
    Thanks for your input! I may try this...Should I try to keep the lens as close to the led as possible or does it not matter?
    I also may try the Luke ROTJ saber method where they use 7/8ths heatsink and heatsink is basically inside the base of blade when its installed.
    The lens needs to be on top of it to focus right, just like glasses on your face

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by jbkuma View Post
    I just measured, the black plastic side of a gx-16 aviation connector should fit in the hilt side, and a the metal part would fit in the blade side. You should be able to find these with a minimal effort.
    Thank You!!!

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