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Thread: Tons of questions.

  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by steamboat28 View Post
    Ok. I scrapped the choke because it was just aesthetic. I swapped out the main body for two double-female extensions separated by one of the double-male extensions with slits in it for the crystal chamber. My final length is down to 12.5" - 14.5", depending on where I put the activation box (to get the rc port out of the way of the chassis). That should clear me out some room to do the things I want to do, in theory.


    As for the sound card, the Prizm may be a great board, but it's not enough cheaper to warrant it given my current budget. Same with the boards less expensive than the NBv4; I figure I'll either hang out at one of those two boards because a $90ish difference is something to fret over, whereas a $40ish one isn't as major a concern to me at the moment. The NB would be the better starting point, I agree.

    Are all of the speaker holders set for threaded rods, or is that a thing I need to look for specific models for? How do we feel about activation boxes mechanically, not aesthetically? Do folks put controls at the rear of the saber often? Am I being too frustrating or question-y?
    Hmmm, that design seems a bit familiar (looks a lot like my Padawan’s saber):

    https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/inde...8041#msg648041

    Usually, control boxes tend to go toward the front of the saber, and most speaker holders are “ready” with threaded holes for use in a TCSS chassis system. Your bottom half shouldn’t need to be very long. A 5” section should be good. Just keep in mind the
    at the internal diameter of the pieces changes (the crystal chamber piece has a narrower ID than the other pieces.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  2. #22

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    Yeah, I believe you need Disk 3 to get into that window section. Then, if you want to fix your chassis and slide the hilt off over it, you'll need MHS Speaker Holder #4.

    Linky for MHS Speaker Holder #4

    ...and its out of stock, so put yourself on ye ol' email restock notification list.

    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    If you’re never going to open the saber, you won’t see the chamber. The design you posted doesn’t lend itself too well to doing a reveal build.
    What about it doesn't make it good for a reveal build, so I can better design the saber?

  4. #24

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    Now that you've added the windowed section to see the chamber, that section has a smaller inside diameter than the rest of the MHS stuff, so you can't slide it down off of your chassis. Now, what you could do, is to build a standalone crystal chamber in that section, not attached to the chassis per se. Then have a reveal chassis beneath that. Or you could just shorten up the hilt and have a slide out chassis, or you could even use the MHS V6 chassis. This would make your first build far easier, and allow you to envision how to put together your next project.

    I think the mistake many make, including myself with MHS, is that you try to build your dream saber right out of the box. I think you should start out simple, and incrementally build more advanced/complex/tight stuff. My vote is for you to build a crystal chamber that will lock inside of that windowed section via set screws, you'd have to drill and tap those holes to do that, or have TCSS do it. This way you would be able to learn the disks and rods in a very short application. Then shorten your main hilt, and use a MHS V6 chassis. That will give you swappable 18650 batteries, and can the RC Port on this first build. Prism will work in that V6 chassis with a little dremel ingenuity. You would access your chassis by removing the pommel and the chassis would slide out. The MHS V6 chassis system is a one piece delrin (I think) that has a space for the 18650 battery holder, speaker, and board. It is a very good platform for your first install.

    MHS V6 Chassis Link
    18650 battery holder for V6 Chassis Link

    Picture of mock up of my first crystal chamber built to go inside the windowed section:


    Inside the windowed section:


    Madcow's video on the MHS V6 Chassis:


    Tom
    Last edited by Tom Tilmon; 03-23-2018 at 09:32 AM.

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  5. #25

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    So, in keeping with the basic precepts of your original design, I have tweaked it a bit. Here is a general idea:



    Parts List for this hilt:
    Blade Holder 5 (don't forget to order the heat sink for it)
    Choke 2
    Double Male with slots style 3
    1.2 inch double female (goes between double male with slots and the choke)
    4 inch fluted double female body
    MPS Pommel V 3
    MHS V6 Chassis and 18650 Battery Holder
    Prism
    I'd go RGB LED with Prism don't forget the lens and thermal tape
    RGB LED for your chamber (I wire parallel to the blade, but to each their own)
    2 Metal Disk 3s for constructing your chamber in the windowed emitter (I'm pretty sure its disk 3, haven't double checked though, make sure the OD of disk 3 will fit in the ID of the windowed emitter.
    Threaded rods for your crystal chamber disks
    nuts for the threded rods, 4 of em.
    Various brass spacers and greeblies for inside your chamber (hardware store has tons of little things that work, plumbing and hardware sections)
    Crystal
    18650 battery
    Wire
    Switches (if you want to put the switches in the 4" main body, we might need to make that into a 5 inch section, or you can use smaller tactile switches in the choke, but that is more advanced.
    Resistors for all of your LED's calculated with Ohms law.

    Or, you could remove the choke and add a 5 inch body and get something like this:

    that saber is 11". Or you could even add a 6" body to make more room for your switches. I'll measure v6 chassis here in a bit.


    There you go.

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  6. #26

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    I would personally go with the 5 inch section. 11 inches is a sweet spot for saber hilts, I feel.

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by steamboat28 View Post
    What about it doesn't make it good for a reveal build, so I can better design the saber?

    There was no place to easily take the saber apart to show it off, unless you retired it each time. The version you have now is better.

    In your latest design, you’ll probably want the 6” section for your sound card, battery, switches, etc.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  8. #28

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    Thanks again, everyone!

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