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Thread: Tons of questions.

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by steamboat28 View Post
    I've been watching those videos religiously for a week now. They're so helpful! Also, the other video you linked? That saber is phenomenal, and the chassis is essentially what I'm after. Thanks!

    Are the gender changer and the female extension necessary for space, or to hold the disks? In other words, can I exchange that 7" MHS hilt 1 for a similarly-styled extension at a shorter length, or do I need all that length for what I'm doing?
    You’d probably need all that length (if not more) for what you want to do.
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  2. #12

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    I think you’re on the right track and Tom’s advice is spot on. I had similar questions a month ago or so when trying to figure out my build about affixing the chassis.

    For my saber that I’m working on, I’ve got my blade holder, a 2 inch double female, a .75 inch double male, then a 6 inch body, and finally the pommel. The .75 inch double male traps the chassis disc 5 between it and the double female, allowing the 6 inch body and pommel to unscrew and reveal the chassis. I opted for the .75 double male instead of the gender changer as it makes it slightly longer for my long hands, and arguably better strength. The 12mm AV switch will sit in the middle of the 2 inch double female extension, which is “above” the fixed chassis as Tom was describing.

    I’m also sticking a crystal chamber, rc port and NB4 in there similar to Tom’s saber he posted. Be tight, but I’m confident.

    Also, for good examples of a chassis with chamber here on the forums, see this thread, the post by MikeC13:
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...hlight=Mikec13

    Also, this thread from Spacemonkey:
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...s-Build-Thread


    These have been very helpful examples to take inspiration from, along with Tom’s work
    Last edited by SFXER001; 03-18-2018 at 03:29 PM.

  3. #13

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    Yep, check other peoples builds then get some parts and mock it up. I actually got a switch 22 opposite a 12mm switch to get 2 switches in that 2" double female section. I think you could fit 2 12mm in there, but one would be through the threads.

    I think buying some chassis disks, rods, etc. and then playing around with all your pieces is definitely the way to go. Plan it all out so you can see how they are going to work out for you! Its part of the fun with these parts.

    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  4. #14

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    All that for a crystal chamber I can't actually even see. I tinkered some in the MHS builder, and to get it to look good and have room for a (one) switch, I'm looking at around a 15 inch design. That's...I'm gonna have to do a lot of rethinking. I thought maybe an switch box might help, but the one I think would look best is too long for much else. I'll give it a day or two to think it over, excited as I am to start.

    Thanks, everyone, for your help.
    Last edited by steamboat28; 03-19-2018 at 02:35 AM.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by steamboat28 View Post
    All that for a crystal chamber I can't actually even see. I tinkered some in the MHS builder, and to get it to look good and have room for a (one) switch, I'm looking at around a 15 inch design. That's...I'm gonna have to do a lot of rethinking. I thought maybe an switch box might help, but the one I think would look best is too long for much else. I'll give it a day or two to think it over, excited as I am to start.

    Thanks, everyone, for your help.
    You can always dremel cutting wheel a damage tear over the crystal chamber so you can see it with the hilt on. Plus, venting sound out behind the speaker makes the saber louder too! Bonus. You can cut that length down a tad, you just need to be creative with your install. That is the challenge on these things.

    So, my first MHS saber was ginormously long, heck, its still long. Its a beast. I put a windowed section in there, and built the crystal chamber as a standalone unit in the window section. Then I built an MHS Chassis that slid in and out via the pommel. Even though this saber is a beast, and way too long, I still love it for what it is. I learned a lot building it. Don't get too down in the mouth if your first saber is longer than you want, you'll learn how to save space as you build. I think the important thing is to build it.

    My long MHS Saber is Mako. Here she blows on her 4th re-build. She is now neopixel. Even though I could have re-designed her to make her shorter, I decided to keep her the monster she always was. Mako is still my favorite saber that I have built. Keep charging!



    Mako is around 15 inches long, longer if you include the shroud at the emitter. Who cares? Build the saber you want!

    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by steamboat28 View Post
    All that for a crystal chamber I can't actually even see. I tinkered some in the MHS builder, and to get it to look good and have room for a (one) switch, I'm looking at around a 15 inch design. That's...I'm gonna have to do a lot of rethinking. I thought maybe an switch box might help, but the one I think would look best is too long for much else. I'll give it a day or two to think it over, excited as I am to start.

    Thanks, everyone, for your help.
    You could always “fake it”, if you look through the archives and find my “Apex” Saber, it has a faked “crystal chamber”.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  7. #17

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    So my crystal is 1 1/16" long. If I can find the parts that I want in-stock, can I just measure up the chassis parts to see how they fit together so I know which ones to order? Then I can build the chassis and see what kind of length I'll need in hilt parts, once I figure out how exactly the metal disks work. Is there a way I can do a mockup? I've seen people use a CAD program; are all part dimensions in their descriptions?

    I'm still on the fence about the CFv9; given the nature of my income, I might never be able to build a second saber, and I do have experience with a soldering iron. It's just hard to justify when I don't know what I'm doing.

  8. #18

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    If you’re never going to open the saber, you won’t see the chamber. The design you posted doesn’t lend itself too well to doing a reveal build. As far as the CFv9, if you haven’t built before, I’d start off “small”, like maybe a Prizm.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    If you’re never going to open the saber, you won’t see the chamber. The design you posted doesn’t lend itself too well to doing a reveal build. As far as the CFv9, if you haven’t built before, I’d start off “small”, like maybe a Prizm.
    I second the Prism. Its a great board. Not too hard to wire, and has many of the great features of the CF. Its a sweet board, particularly if you go RGB.

    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  10. #20

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    Ok. I scrapped the choke because it was just aesthetic. I swapped out the main body for two double-female extensions separated by one of the double-male extensions with slits in it for the crystal chamber. My final length is down to 12.5" - 14.5", depending on where I put the activation box (to get the rc port out of the way of the chassis). That should clear me out some room to do the things I want to do, in theory.


    As for the sound card, the Prizm may be a great board, but it's not enough cheaper to warrant it given my current budget. Same with the boards less expensive than the NBv4; I figure I'll either hang out at one of those two boards because a $90ish difference is something to fret over, whereas a $40ish one isn't as major a concern to me at the moment. The NB would be the better starting point, I agree.

    Are all of the speaker holders set for threaded rods, or is that a thing I need to look for specific models for? How do we feel about activation boxes mechanically, not aesthetically? Do folks put controls at the rear of the saber often? Am I being too frustrating or question-y?
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