Results 1 to 3 of 3

Thread: 2007 Master Replicas Luke ANH Conversion

  1. #1

    Default 2007 Master Replicas Luke ANH Conversion

    What I have:
    2007 Master Replicas ANH Hilt (gutted prior to me getting it)
    Graflex 2.5 red button with post
    Graflex 2.5 glass eye replica
    Graflex 2.5 D-Ring
    T8 Tubing
    Craft Boxes, Hardware, and Burlap
    micro tactile switches
    Guinness can, yep, I have those.

    Shopping List: (sans tools, wire, etc.)
    B,B,W Tricree with transfer tape
    Carclo lens
    TCSS Luke ANH Conversion Kit
    .5 ohm resistors
    NBIV
    MHS V6 Chassis
    18650 Battery Holder and 18650 battery
    28mm Veco Bass Speaker
    TCSS Short Graflex Pins

    ...and we're off:

    I wanted a Maz Box for this one, not movie accurate, just a box built to look like an old wooden box.

    Here is what I started with Pine Craft Box/Hardware lines are going to be etched to look like planks:

    Next, I cut the lines so it looks like planks, then burn, dremel, mar, and scar. FIRE!

    Add Stain, and hardware, and oilah, it looks like an old box that has been in Maz's place for hundreds of years.

    Lined it with some padding and burlap over padding. Box fit for Maz!

    Saber:

    Step one, can the old DRing. Its too small, you can't even attach it to a saber clip. I popped it out with a drill, and popped on the 2.5 DRing instead. I used a rivet, she's in there solid. Here is comparison shot of the 2 drings prior to surgery:


    Step two: I wanted to do a momentary switch in the clamp on this one. I'm doing another MR Graflex (Rey's Jedi Training Hasbro), and I'm going to give red button activation a whirl on that one. I got rid of the latching switch here. I dremeled out the existing switch hole to allow for the new tactile switch hat to poke up into the clamp. The micro tactile switch was then intalled there under the bubble strip. Got rid of the factory metal underneath the bubble strip, and replaced it with some layers of aluminum beer can trims until I got the appropriate response out of the tactile switch. It took 3 layers of beer can trim. I trimmed the aluminum in a solid rectangle with no slots, so that it prevents the clamp card from sliding forward as it did from the factory with the latching switch.
    Photo of the tactile switch in the clamp:


    Step three: Prep the conversion kit. I painted the round recesses flat black where the short graflex pins go. I drilled out the stock MR Electric tabs so that they fit the TCSS Short Graflex Pins, so I could re-install them. They are chrome, and should be brass, but looks better with them than without. Installed the new LED Star on the heat sink and popped the conversion kit into the saber after de-burring the inside of the saber per Tim's advice. The fit is tight, but accurate. I have no complaints about the conversion kit, none. I think its awesome. I also drilled and tapped the conversion kit to receive the Graflex 2.5 Red Button and Glass Eye. Threads are 10-24. I did have to mill down the base of the red button so that it fit in the button receptacle, but that took a minute. Simple.
    Arrival of the TCSS Conversion Kit!

    Red Button (you can also see the black paint in the graflex pin cutouts)

    Glass Eye Replica


    Step four: Prep the MHS V6 chassis. I trimmed the battery holder, wired it, wired the speaker, and attached the NBIV aboard. I went ahead and soldered the speaker wires, but left the positives and negatives off until they joined with the wires coming from the saber (LED+ and Switch - will join with battery leads and then onto NBIV). I also cut a piece of T8 tubing and routed the saber wires into the tube, so that the tube could be later slid over the MHS V6 chassis, once the install was complete.

    Step five: Route the wires into the MHS V6, join where appropriate, and solder in the board!


    Finished Saber:





    Insert blade (new red button is blade retention!) and rock and roll!
    Video of her in action:


    Tom
    Last edited by Tom Tilmon; 03-13-2018 at 09:52 AM.

    "Let the past die."

  2. #2

  3. #3

    Default

    I forgot photos of the guts!
    The NBIV in the MHS V6:



    I'm really happy with the results and performance. The NBIV is such a neat little board. This saber is pretty loud too, way louder than my 2.0 Installs. You can feel the hums through the hilt! I'm getting ready to convert a Rey Jedi Training from Hasbro as well. I'm going to repeat this process, except for using a Graflex 2.5 Red Button for Activation next time. So the clamp switch will be totally dead. Going to use RB,B,W in that saber too. Other than that, it'll be the same. These conversions are cake, and come out great given what you start with. I still like the hilt kits a bit better for some accuracy stuff, but the MR's are ok for what they are!

    Tom

    "Let the past die."

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •