My Chassis layout thoughts and advice needed (take 2)

[Darth_Banyon]

So, I got an Ultrasabers Aeon V2 LE stunt saber in one of their "Mystery boxes". I liked the slender design of the hilt but the tailcap end was a bit plain and flashlighty for me. I went to the US forum to see if there was anything I could do to add a pommel to it as the US V@ will not fith any of their larger sized pommels ( which are MHS V1 sized).
I was informed (incorrectly) that the TCSS V2 pommels would fit and that there was also an adaptor that I could use to fit a V1 to my hilt....I was overjoyed!!
I ordered a MSH V1 to V2 adaptor and a basic V1 pommel to start off.....when they arrived I quickly learned that the US V2 and the TCSS V2 have VASTLY different thread Diameter and pitches and it just wasn't going to fit.




I had a few options....I could add more metal to the adaptor and cut new threads, I could tap the new thread pitch into the hilt or I could choose option C....


option C!!! I used my calipers to measure the shank of the threads on the adaptor and realized it would fit nicely into the ID of the hilt so I took my Dremel and a sanding drum and ground the threads totally off the adaptor.






the only problem is that if I epoxy or silver solder the adaptor in I will lose access to the 4-AAA battery pack so once the batteries fail that's it....





so I started looking into replacing the batteries with a smaller pack and that's when I figured "Hell....in for a penny in for a pound"
so I decided to wire it for sound with a better LED setup. I am going with a Nano Biscotte V4 and a Tri-Cree Amber,Amber, White FoC

now the challenge....I need to fit the speaker holder and the metal chassis disc to fit inside the adaptor and be held in place by the pommel being screwed in and the rest of the chassis needs to fit through the 1" opening and into the thin hilt...



so I used Tinkercad to make digital replicas of the chassis parts I plan to use and arranged it and here is the chassis I have come up with so far...




It will fit into the hilt both lengthwise and widthwise but I am still trying to figure out a way to fit a recharge port into the chassis since there is no recharge port part for the MHS V2 chassis and I'd like to be able to charge the battery without having to disassemble the chassis.......any suggestions?

[Darth_Banyon]

end view

[SFXER001]

It sounds like to need to construct your own acrylic or nylon discs to hold a recharge port and stick it next to that Chassis Disc #5. Then drill a hole through the hilt to access the port without having to disassemble the pommel to slide the chassis out. Am I understanding the challenge correctly?

That's a cool hilt. I've seen some impressive US custom modifications/weathering jobs on their forums.

[Darth_Banyon]

you are fairly close, I don't need the recharge port hole in the hilt as I don't mind having to slide the chassis out to plug it in, I would just prefer to not have to take the battery out completely. If I do go with the option I think I would prefer to have the recharge port on the inside of the covertec wheel....I think that has been done before.....right?

Thanks, I'm just getting started on it.... going to Acid etch it with some tribal thorn patterns, wrap the grip in leather and possibly add a shroud (also acid etched)

[Tom Tilmon]

I have seen a rc port inside a covertec wheel on a pachstore Dooku, but haven't seen it in person to understand how they did it. Are you going to use set screws to fix that pommel in now?

It looks like you have enough room in chassis. How about insert another disk and space enough to mount your RC port horizontally. In doing MR/Hasbro conversions, I have found unique places to pop in rc ports. For that matter, you could engineer some connection method to hold the rc port up on that disk in front of your speaker holder, maybe like using the top portion of the MHS V1 RC Port Disk set. The piece the RC port screws into. Find a way to epoxy that piece into the metal disk. There isn't a great deal of strain on that RC port, I'd think there could be a way for you to affix it between that disk in front of your speaker holder, and maybe another solid disk in your chassis with some creative dremeling? Kind of like a homemade RC Port Disk set for your smaller diameter chassis. But, you'd probably have some clearance issues, which is why I think they don't make the RC Port Disk set for MHS V2? Or, add another solid disk and mount the RC Port horizontally/diagonally. You may have to modify a RC Port Plug to go in at some weird angle in a tight space, but any calm port in a storm.

Good luck!

Tom

[SFXER001]

Tom echoes my sentiments; You have space between the speaker and NanoBV4. I am taking into accountyour need for a space to remove the microSD card. it looks like you have room on either side of the board.

[lovetadraw]

The v2 Ultrasabers aren't the same I.D. as MHSv2 (1") they are 1.15" I.D., which means you can use MHSv1 chassis disks for the grenade sections.

[Darth_Banyon]

The v2 Ultrasabers aren't the same I.D. as MHSv2 (1") they are 1.15" I.D., which means you can use MHSv1 chassis disks for the grenade sections.

This is true but the opening on the MHS V2 adaptor I need to fit the chassis through is 1"

[Darth_Banyon]

Alright....I think this is the final layout, Its going to take some custom 3d printed discs or to have TCSS make me a couple blank discs without openings but I think it will work

[Darth_Banyon]

now I just gotta wait for the V4 speaker holder to come back in stock....