I would say that because the angle makes such a marginal to minimal difference on the saber, go for the higher degree lense, then for those of us who are in the FSM we would have a broader beam in our flashlights. ...but that may just be me[/b]
I would say that because the angle makes such a marginal to minimal difference on the saber, go for the higher degree lense, then for those of us who are in the FSM we would have a broader beam in our flashlights. ...but that may just be me[/b]
FSM What's on your belt?
Jonitus what blade do you have in that red sabre ?
Phil Higgins
lens
i said i could tell a difference cause my eyes are super sensitive... the solder fumes was a bit of a joke!
to be honest im one of the only members who has done enough hilts to be able to run a compairison test with all the factors, diff blades, lux's, colors, and to me the the 3w benifit from a 5 degree, the k2 is a little more even with 5 degree, and the 5w really doesnt matter its so friggin bright!
if your usin a lux 3 red then i would sugest staying with a 10 degree, its really an awesome and bright led and you get a better effect with the wider lens, you will still have a good amount of flare at the base and a good even blade.
and james has made a ton.
as shown in his pic with like 10 sabers piled on him
Aluke123 on every other forum - Old grumpy moderator here
Thread Index, The Saber Building Dictionary, and The Basic Saber-Build Tutorial - Read Them!
That is a blade built from tubing and shouldered tip bought here at TCSS, and has 1 sheet of 24x36 buffed Mylar for diffusion and two more sheets of 24x36 Mylar, non-buffed, for reflecting the light back and forth. It's a pretty bright blade, as evidenced by the shots.Originally Posted by neophyl
Thanks for the info Jonitus. Where can I pick up some mylar sheet ? I wouldnt mind having a go at making one like that. The results look very impressive in your pics.
Phil Higgins
I got mine from the local craft store. Do you have something similar on that side of the pond?
I used 3mil Mylar. After cutting the three sheets, I cleaned all of them very well with a lint-free cloth and made sure the inside of the blade was clean. I rolled up the two unbuffed sheets, one at a time, and inserted them into the blade, one at a time.
The third sheet was buffed with a piece of 000 steel wool in a diagonal direction. It was cleaned once again, then rolled up and inserted into the blade. The blade, when off, will look metallic in nature, but will illuminate well when lit.
From the inside of your blade, the layers should go:
Buffed sheet
Non buffed sheet
Non buffed sheet
Blade
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks