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Thread: Tapping/Drilling through threaded sections

  1. #11


    I will be doing my very first tapping through threads rather soon.

    So is the suggestion to NOT tap while the two pieces are threaded together, rather to drill/tap the pieces separately?

    I am afraid to drill/tap separate, as I can not imagine getting the two holes to be in the EXACT right place.

  2. #12


    Well, theoretically, you shouldn’t do it at all - but if you have to, I would drill and tap the holes while they were together.
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  3. #13


    Anytime you're drilling and/or tapping through threaded sections, be prepared to have the pieces permanently connected. One little sliver of metal in the threads, and they'll jam up tight.

    If I ever needed to drill through a threaded section, I'd probably use the RED (Permanent) threadlocker on them first, and then do my machining work. I wouldn't feel comfortable building a saber that had holes drilled in threads, that also required those pieces to be separated. It would be an exercise in frustration.
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  4. #14


    I think....and I'm no need to think about how you will be doing final assembly. How will you get the switch and charge port secured inside the drilled hole? you could use some long hemostats or pliers or something but that is going to be a tough job to get them secured. Why not use one of the beautiful pre-drilled switch covers you can purchase on the TCSS site and move the charge port and switch to the forward section of your saber? Then you can attach the charge port and switch to that and use one or two screws to secure it to your hilt. TCSS can even set that up for you by milling the access port below the cover plate. It also moves your hand naturally to the center of the hilt making it easier for your motion sensor to capture momentum. Just sayin.......

  5. #15


    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    Be careful which threadlocker you purchase. Loctite BLUE is temporary. Loctite RED is permanent. Read the label on the bottle carefully, as the color of the bottle doesn't always match the color of the contents.
    This is correct. I have only drilled through threads once so far myself (put a guarded switch in that part of the body) and I found it worked well to have the parts put together like I wanted and drill through both at the same time (also useful in case something goes wrong and the pieces end up stuck together).
    I used the temporary (blue) threadlock on the parts to help fill in any gaps between the threads to help lessen the chance of tiny shavings ending up jamming the threads) and of course made sure to clean and de-bur the hole (and triple check it's clear) before unscrewing the two parts. Then just cleaned the blue thread locker off, check the threads a final time to be sure no debris ended up in them, added a little grease to the threads (since I cleaned the original grease off when I cleaned the thread locker off them) and that worked out pretty well for me.
    To be clear, while I'd use this method again based on my results, I've only needed to drill through the threads once so there's always the chance I just got lucky and your milage may vary.

  6. #16


    If you don't already have them...Harbor Freight has a set of Mini Files that can be used to clean up the threaded section that has been drilled through, also use a wire brush to get all the grit out. If you still find it difficult to the the threaded sections together use a little tooth paste on the threads and carefully work them back and forth and that will also clean them up, rinse and your ready to go. Sounds like you want these sections to act as a single piece so that simplifies it further. Gary


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