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Thread: Tapping/Drilling through threaded sections

  1. #1

    Default Tapping/Drilling through threaded sections

    shotorender1.jpg
    Hello all, I was playing with the saber builder and found a design I really like. Being a fan of short one-handed hilts, it's hard to get a design below 10 inches. I have a design I like that is 9.6 inches, but doesn't leave a lot of unthreaded room for mounting switches and charging ports. Is it possible to order it and have the holes pre-drilled through the threaded section? I could ask them to be aligned and red-loctited beforehand. Or is this rather something I would have to do myself?
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  2. #2

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    That’s a question better sent directly to the store.
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  3. #3

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    If you have a drill press, do it yourself. I built a 9.5 mhs for my son and the chassis is retained at the neck by two screws. In the threads... worked out great
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  4. #4

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    Screen Shot 2018-02-27 at 12.48.15 PM.jpg

    Unfortunately I do not have space for a workshop, fortunately, it appears i do not need one

  5. #5

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    I drill through the threads all the time. Just be extra cautious to clean up the burrs surrounding the holes. Also, know that separating the parts becomes impossible without removing whatever you are popping through!!! Glad you got it. My Mako saber has a switch popped right down through the threads. I'd prefer that whole piece to be solid anyway. You can still fish wires and such through the saber with various fishing tapes, hangers, etc. I have creative ways of fishing wires in saber bodies. Good luck with your build!!!!!

    Tom

    "Let the past die."

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Major_Tom View Post
    Screen Shot 2018-02-27 at 12.48.15 PM.jpg

    Unfortunately I do not have space for a workshop, fortunately, it appears i do not need one
    Harbor Freight sells drill bits that drill, tap and deburr all in the same action. Just for fyi.

  7. #7

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    By the pictures you aded (what you want to do) is not tap and drill. You are needing holes drilled through the sections for a box mount. In the pictures you are showing the box with the AV Switch and recharge port. That is different then tap and drill.

  8. #8

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    Just as a bit of forewarning to anyone wanting to drill and tap through threaded sections:

    If you're going to drill through multiple pieces at one time, and you want to be able to separate them afterwords, use very little orange or blue liquid thread locker!!! Like one or two wee-wee-wee little drops. I used 6 wee little drops and the thing is SUPERGLUED. My clocking did not shift at all though, so at least that's the positive outcome from my attempt at drilling through a 2" double female and into two male parts.

    My second recommendation is that you get your clocking set with the pieces assembled. Mark your female piece. Disassemble them. Then drill through just the female part. Do any thread cleanup or 'push-through' flashing removal as necessary. Then assemble your pieces, mark the other piece(s) through the drilled hole(s). Disassemble the pieces and then drill the one(s) you just marked.

    I had drilled through all three, with orange threadlocker, and there seems to be no way to disassemble the parts now. I even tried heating it up with a torch to break the threadlocker free, but it didn't work. One of the holes deformed the male threaded section on the way through into the cavity of the hilt. I tried to press it back up into place, but there's still a small 1/64 - 1/32 gap between it and the female threaded section. I had hoped that tapping them would have cleaned out whatever 'push-through' there was locking the pieces together, but alas it did not help. Kinda boogered the tapping too, but weirdly enough it holds the clamp onto the body. I'll either attempt to retap a larger hole (if I can find or make a small enough head on a larger bolt) or perhaps solder the hole and retap it with the same size tap I used before.

    So, even though I measured perfectly, clocked perfectly, took my time drilling down through them, it still could have gone better if I'd thought to do this in three separate drilling steps rather than just one.

    Good Luck to everyone on your threaded section drilling adventures!

  9. #9

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    Be careful which threadlocker you purchase. Loctite BLUE is temporary. Loctite RED is permanent. Read the label on the bottle carefully, as the color of the bottle doesn't always match the color of the contents.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ridire Fr饌n View Post
    I had hoped that tapping them would have cleaned out whatever 'push-through' there was locking the pieces together, but alas it did not help. Kinda boogered the tapping too, but weirdly enough it holds the clamp onto the body. I'll either attempt to retap a larger hole (if I can find or make a small enough head on a larger bolt) or perhaps solder the hole and retap it with the same size tap I used before.
    Tapping probably made it worse, really, deforming it a bit and shoving more shavings in to the threads and to bind it up. I do a lot of builds with concentric tubing and even if you think there is no room between the pieces it'll seem there is more debris in there than what you drilled out in the first place!

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