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Thread: Cape Fear Stormtrooper TENT POLE Lightsaber

  1. #1

    Default Cape Fear Stormtrooper TENT POLE Lightsaber

    First and foremost: This build is for friend, fellow 501st Legion member: Robert Lentz. He has been an inspiration to me. Robert, even prior to joining the 501st Legion would appear all over Wilmington, for free. He never wanted any money, he was just spreading the joy of Star Wars, because he enjoyed it. Watching Robert, AKA Cape Fear Stormtrooper go all about town, and dress up at all these charity functions inspired me to build a costume and join the 501st Legion. My Kylo Ren was approved the same week as Robert's TK was finally accepted into the Legion. He found out I built sabers and brought me this "tent pole" that he'd been carrying around for years thinking it would make a great lightsaber hilt someday. To thank him for his inspirational work, I set out to bring his vision to fruition! This is a budget build, neither Robert nor I have tons of money.
    Robert, Cape Fear Stormtrooper and I in September 2011, long before I joined the 501st Legion. I'm busy enough with bagpiping!


    Build Materials:
    Cape Fear Stormtrooper: Tent Pole (aluminum grooved)

    TCSS: MHS Shroud Material
    Switch Box 10
    16 MM Cog Red Momentary Switch
    Aluminum Saber Clip
    MHS V6 Speaker Holder/26650 Battery holder
    MHS Pommel 7 (insert 6, and clip)
    1" LED Module/Heat Sink
    NBIV with pex

    My supplies:
    Common anode RGB accent LED, going up through switch box 10 behind switch, will be parallel to the blade, + resistors appropriate for full pad voltage.
    NeCree RGB LED Star
    18650 Battery
    Wire
    Solder
    Various Hex head screws/set screws 8-32
    8-32 bit and tap
    5mm bit for RGB LED Hole
    Stepped bit for switch hole
    1" ID Aluminum tube for blade holder/LED Module holder. Fits tightly inside the "tent pole".
    T8 Tubing to protect electronics in the MHS V6 Holder.

    The "tent pole", notice the ridged surface:

    Inside Diameter:

    Using the MHS V6 Speaker Holder. It doesn't fit all the way into the tent pole, but my plan is to sandwich it in via a pommel set screwed into a piece of MHS shroud. MHS Shroud fits around the "tent pole" perfectly.



    The bottom end with the pommel set into MHS Shroud with a Saber clip added:


    Top Shroud:


    Switch holder, which is box 10. Initially I was just drilling a hole for a 12mm AV switch with a stepped bit I normally use. I went one step too far, and had to switch out to a 16mm AV switch, and ordered the box just in case I needed to cover the hole. I'd never used one of these switch boxes before, so its a learning thing to pop it on.


    Pommel end, with brass insert to add contrast:


    Set screw in top emitter:


    So, the machining is mostly done. Brass blade retention thumb screw is set in. The LED and Module are installed, the switch and RGB LED are installed in the switch box. I'm waiting for the E6000 to dry on the soundboard and LED before I finish assembly of the V6 holder in the saber. Basically its done. I do plan on painting the upper shroud black, but leaving the bottom shroud and pommel polished aluminum. There will be a color gradient. Pommel shiny, hilt dull gray with brass switch box and cog switch, shroud black. Even though this was a LOW budget build, and I'm doing it all as a tribute to my inspirational Garrison mate, it is really coming out nice. I think Robert's gonna poo when he sees the saber. It is going to be awesome. Tent pole lightsaber...oilah.

    Tom
    Last edited by Tom Tilmon; 02-01-2018 at 10:29 AM.

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  2. #2

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    Looks great! I bet that ridged surface is pretty comfortable in the hand. I also bet the look on his face will be priceless.

  3. #3

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    Thanks, and I hope so. Robert has suffered a myriad of health issues over the last few years, and doesn't have much money. There is no way he would have been able to afford a saber of this caliber. He is going to poo, when I give it to him for sure. I'm pretty excited to get it to him, but there is still some work to be done, so that its right 100% before that happens.

    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  4. #4

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    Hi Tom, long-time lurker here planning his first saber ever, and planning to build everything with MHS parts, do all his own wiring, the works. I admire your Starkiller saber build, as that's a look I'm going for, and I see here that you are using the same TCSS Shroud material with the 1.625 OD. Having used this in your previous and current builds, how do you feel about that large of an OD? Does it feel too hefty and larger than a lightsaber hilt should be? I want to use it to make the shroud of a starkiller/derelict style saber, but I'm worried it will look too bulky. I'm a tall 6'3" 220 guy with fairly big hands, but I have my concerns. Any thoughts?

    Sorry to get off topic. I'm looking forward to seeing how this tent pole build comes out! I think it's an interesting texture to work with. You could even put perpendicular circles around the circumference using a pipe-cutter to lightly score it for some interesting patterns.

  5. #5

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    TCSS Shroud feels fine in my hand, and we're the same size. I'm 6'3" 220# AS WELL.

    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  6. #6

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    Looking great as always!

  7. #7

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    What method did you use to drill the holes for the activiation box? One of my biggest challenges is getting holes to line up in a straight line. I use a drill press but lash will move a hole a few millimeters one or way or another for the second hole.

  8. #8

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    I gather from his post that he was using a step bit (said he went one step too far). As far as reducing lash, are you drilling them directly side-by-side?

    (_)(_) to create a (___) ??? It's hard to stop side-lash and the wander of the bit into your first drill hole, and keep them lined up better. I'd like to know how to lessen the impact of that, too.

    Are you center-punching a starter hole? I find this is key to keeping things lined up and reducing wander, but I'm inexperienced and still learning.

  9. #9

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    How I drilled this one was to drill the switch hole first. The switch fits tightly in the hole in hilt. I then threaded the switch into the switch box, so that the switch could be inserted into the hilt, which in turn held the switch box from moving laterally, and I then socked a 8-32 bit through the retention screw hole, which used the switch box as a kind of poor man's bit guide to avoid bit walking. Then I drilled the LED hole in the bottom of the switch box. I'm using a RGB LED there to match the blade, just for kicks and giggles.

    A better way of doing business when drilling to avoid bit walk is: punch a mark where you want it, use very small bit initially in the punch dent. Use sequentially larger bits to get your hole to the needed size. That is why I usually use a stepped bit when drilling switch holes; however, the danger in a step bit, is going too far, and making your hole too large. I do use a drill press, but like you said, the head in my press and length of my bit don't make it immune to bit walking on the round surface of a hilt. The advantage of a stepped bit, is that with a steady hand, you can use it to partially drill into the next bigger step to give you your countersink for the switch. It takes some bit switching out of the equation, and is a relatively lazy solution that requires you to be very cautious in not over-drilling the size of your hole. When you're doing the partial punch for the counter sink, you must go very slowly, and check your hole with the switch constantly to get the depth/diameter right. There is no way you could used this method with a hand drill. So don't even try it, you'll certainly mess up your hole. If you're using a hand drill, you're better off getting TCSS to sock your switch holes in where you need them. TCSS does have a hole drilling service you can purchase when you purchase your hilts. I order mine clean, so I can adjust my plans if needed.

    Now when I have multiple holes that must line up, I use guide pieces or the stepped bit method to get the holes precisely where I need them. Sometimes; however, even the best laid plans can run amok. when I made the initial switch hole error on this piece, I figured I was toast, because the 12mm switches I typically use would fall right through the hole. Fortunately, I could upgrade to a larger diameter switch to solve my problem in this instance, as this piece of "hilt" is fairly unique, and I don't know where to get another. With TCSS hilts, its a good thing the standard hilt pieces aren't inordinately expensive. I have butchered a few of them. When you really have pressure is when you're drilling on an expensive Blade Holder.

    BTW, I'm changing the board on this to a NBIV with power extender for RGB. I need to wire a PEX, and NBIV is a better board for this saber which has no recharge port. So, now I'm about to tackle re-working my setup to fit on nano. I'm going to wire the switch LED to deep sleep pad, the accent LED in box 10 will still be wired on the L1,L2, and L3 (pex), so it will match the blade. This saber has the MHS V6 for swappable batteries, because that is what Robert wanted. Its a very simple saber with some pretty neat features. He is still going to love it, even with the reduced functionality of the NBIV.

    Tom
    Last edited by Tom Tilmon; 02-01-2018 at 10:17 AM.

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  10. #10

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    Wow, Tom, that sure is a unique material for a handle! Do you know if you are going to shine this hilt, or grunge it? I imagine either one would be... interesting, with that textured hilt.

    Quote Originally Posted by SFXER001 View Post
    Does it feel too hefty and larger than a lightsaber hilt should be? I want to use it to make the shroud of a starkiller/derelict style saber, but I'm worried it will look too bulky. I'm a tall 6'3" 220 guy with fairly big hands, but I have my concerns. Any thoughts?
    SFX, i know your question was to Tom, but i gotta tell ya, my best friend is 5'6" and wants a 16 inch hilt because he and brother HEMA fight and he wants a literal claymore. Also, recall that rubber grips like the traditional Graflex and Heiland add a half inch to outer diameter, by comparison the mhs sleeve is nice and skinny. I guess im saying its only bulky and unwieldy if you think it is, but it takes all kinds here!
    Player: I feel your anger, master.
    Darth Baras: A blind, deaf, comatose, lobotomy patient could feel MY ANGER!!

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