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Thread: Nano Biscotte v4 versus Prizm v5.1

  1. #1

    Default Nano Biscotte v4 versus Prizm v5.1

    I am in the process of building a saber with sound, and am looking at the Nano Biscotte v4 and the Prizm v5.1. What are the differences between the two, and in particular, how will it affect FoC. i am looking to do a Orange blade with a yellow flash on clash, and need to make sure the cards can handle what I am trying to do. This is mostly just a costume piece for cosplay(Former Jedi Sentinel turned Grey Jedi) and not really something for serious dueling, but I still want it to look right. If anyone can help point me in the right direction here, it would be most appreciated.

  2. #2

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    The Prizm is basically "the big brother" of the NB, and as such, has more features. The Prizm also uses an Auxiliary button to access said features, while the NB only supports 1 button.
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    The Prizm is basically "the big brother" of the NB, and as such, has more features. The Prizm also uses an Auxiliary button to access said features, while the NB only supports 1 button.
    Thank you. I wasn't quite sure if the extra money would have been worth it for my purposes. From my understanding of your answer, it seems like it would be. This is my first custom build(I will be doing a second later to dual wield with), but am going to also be making a couple as gifts for friends, so you have been most helpful.

  4. #4

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    Biggest thing would be the Prizm will support a RICE connection which will allow you to connect to and make changes to your saber's settings without removing the SD card. Also if you use an RGB LED you can dial in the exact color you want. The AUX switch will allow you to have blaster deflect sounds and lock up sounds.

    But otherwise both boards can perform to what you stated.

  5. #5

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    Even with all the aforementioned features of Prism, if this is your first saber build there are some other reasons to use the nano (NBIV).

    1. Easier to wire, bigger pads..further away from sensitive electronics (except for the DS pad, that one is a bugger)
    2. If you do mess one up, they are cheaper to replace.
    3. Its a solid simple board, and not much to really go wrong if you keep your plan solid.

    whereas, if you decide to wire up a Prism, you have upped the scale of difficulty quite a bit, and for that reason on your first build, I'd recommend a NBIV.

    Tom

    "Let the past die."

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Tilmon View Post
    Even with all the aforementioned features of Prism, if this is your first saber build there are some other reasons to use the nano (NBIV).

    1. Easier to wire, bigger pads..further away from sensitive electronics (except for the DS pad, that one is a bugger)
    2. If you do mess one up, they are cheaper to replace.
    3. Its a solid simple board, and not much to really go wrong if you keep your plan solid.

    whereas, if you decide to wire up a Prism, you have upped the scale of difficulty quite a bit, and for that reason on your first build, I'd recommend a NBIV.

    Tom
    He can have his boards repaired if he happens to screw them up that badly.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  7. #7

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    With a Prizm 5.1, like mentioned before, you will probably want to go with a RGB tri-led setup. RICE is an excellent option for adjusting the color of your main blade, and FOC.

    With that being said, depending on what kind of orange you want as your main color, you can use a custom tri-led to get your orange blade and yellow FOC.

    Read the “Flash on ClashTM Mixing Techniques” section of the NB 4 manual, to get an idea of how that would work.

    I made my son an orange main blade using a red and amber die in parallel (the link to that saber is in my signature). I’d describe it as “Orange pop colored” (as in Sunkist brand).
    I used a white die, in an “on top” FOC setup so the white die washes out the orange (basically all dice on at once).

    Just another option to consider!

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigkevin61 View Post
    With a Prizm 5.1, like mentioned before, you will probably want to go with a RGB tri-led setup. RICE is an excellent option for adjusting the color of your main blade, and FOC.

    With that being said, depending on what kind of orange you want as your main color, you can use a custom tri-led to get your orange blade and yellow FOC.

    Read the “Flash on ClashTM Mixing Techniques” section of the NB 4 manual, to get an idea of how that would work.

    I made my son an orange main blade using a red and amber die in parallel (the link to that saber is in my signature). I’d describe it as “Orange pop colored” (as in Sunkist brand).
    I used a white die, in an “on top” FOC setup so the white die washes out the orange (basically all dice on at once).

    Just another option to consider!
    I am leaning towards more of a reddish orange at the moment, but it would be nice to be able to adjust it slightly as needed. Nice looking hilt, btw. Are the orange sections the Jollipop Copper?

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by brad813 View Post
    Nice looking hilt, btw. Are the orange sections the Jollipop Copper?
    Thanks! I was playing around in the MHS builder, and it just happened, and I was like, “there it is!”

    And yes, those sections are Jollipop Orange. One of the better looking powder coats, if you ask me!
    It is a translucent powdercoat, meaning the condition of the surface before coating effects the look after.
    The 0.75” extension by the pommel is quite shiny, as the outside of the part is relatively reflective as is (before powder), whereas the fluted section where the switch box resides, is a bit more muted, as the milling process in making the flutes leaves them slightly rough (very minor tool marks).
    Last edited by bigkevin61; 01-28-2018 at 10:29 PM.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by brad813 View Post
    I am leaning towards more of a reddish orange at the moment, but it would be nice to be able to adjust it slightly as needed.
    Of course a PRIZM with an RGB will give you a easy way of adjusting / changing colors, but if you would still be interested in using a Nano Biscotte, check out Madcow’s custom color tutorial here.

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