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Thread: Nano Biscotte v4 versus Prizm v5.1

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigkevin61 View Post
    Thanks! I was playing around in the MHS builder, and it just happened, and I was like, “there it is!”

    And yes, those sections are Jollipop Orange. One of the better looking powder coats, if you ask me!
    It is a translucent powdercoat, meaning the condition of the surface before coating effects the look after.
    The 0.75” extension by the pommel is quite shiny, as the outside of the part is relatively reflective as is (before powder), whereas the fluted section where the switch box resides, is a bit more muted, as the milling process in making the flutes leaves them slightly rough (very minor tool marks).
    Thanks. Been looking at getting this one primarily in this color, so it's nice to see that it will be exactly what I had in mind.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigkevin61 View Post
    Of course a PRIZM with an RGB will give you a easy way of adjusting / changing colors, but if you would still be interested in using a Nano Biscotte, check out Madcow’s custom color tutorial here.
    I have watched that one, and understand the resistor method quite well, aside from how you get foc in a mixed color from it.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by brad813 View Post
    I have watched that one, and understand the resistor method quite well, aside from how you get foc in a mixed color from it.
    So, first off, I’d like to apologize. I have worked primarily with NB 2.0, NB 3.0, and Crystal a focus boards.

    I didn’t realize the NB 4 had the ability to “mix” an RGB led in a way similar to a PRIZM. (The older NB boards would need the mixing tricks in Madcows Video, or even stunt setups).

    So, if you are using a NB 4 or a PRIZM 5.1, a 3.7v Battery, and a RGrB Tri-Cree, Here is the setup I came up with for your colors:

    The goal of the resistor is to define the maximum current for a LED die, not to mix the color of the blade. (Soundcard manual)
    If you were to use these colors in you blade with Red wired to L1, Green to L2, an Royal Blue to L3 (through a PEX for the NB 4), you would need these resistor(s)/settings:
    Red would need a (3.7v-2.65vf)/1A=1.05ohm or 1ohm-2w-resistor.
    Green would need a (3.7v-3.7vf)/1A=0ohm resistor . It is best practice to put some limit on current (just in case), and you can do so by adjusting the “drive” and “fdrive” parameters. In is case the value of 1023 = no current limit (or 100% from the battery, which can vary in it’s actual voltage) you can set the value at 98%, or 1003 to be safe. (I.E. never go above 1003 as a value)
    Royal Blue would need a (3.7v-3.4vf)/1A=0.3ohm resistor. Once again you can use the “drive” and “fdrive” parameters. Set it at 1023*(3.4/3.7)=940 (or 92%). (I.E. never go above 940 as a value)

    A rough color guide in the Soundcard manual suggests a “drive” setting of “drive=1023,255,0” or 100% Red, 25% Green, 0% rBlue for an Orange Main Blade Color.
    A rough color guide in the Soundcard manual suggests a “fdrive” setting of “fdrive=1023,1003,0” or 100% Red, 98% Green (as that is the max without a resistor in the circuit), 0% rBlue for a Yellow FOC Blade Color. (The swaps out the Orange, and replaces it with Yellow for the FOC flashes).

    The section in the NB 4 manual, “FOC mixing Techniques” looks to be explaining how to have the FOC more dynamic, which with your color choices, is not needed (you can ignore that section for an Orange Main Blade and Yellow FOC using the configuration above).

    Changing drive and fdrive values is not the most efficient process (remove the SD card, change values, return the SD card), nor the most accurate (linear drive of battery voltage, is NOT a current regulator), but I’m sure you can get it to work, opposed to upgrading to a more expensive sound card with the “color extender” add-on board.

    You could do the same logic for a custom tri-Cree, resistoring (or max drive values) and then tweak the drive values to get the colors you like.

  4. #14

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    I think you've gotten all the answers you are looking for, but ...

    Plecter Labs has a comparison table of all their boards.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by rlobrecht View Post
    I think you've gotten all the answers you are looking for, but ...

    Plecter Labs has a comparison table of all their boards.
    I have but thank you.

  6. #16

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bigkevin61 View Post
    So, first off, I’d like to apologize. I have worked primarily with NB 2.0, NB 3.0, and Crystal a focus boards.

    I didn’t realize the NB 4 had the ability to “mix” an RGB led in a way similar to a PRIZM. (The older NB boards would need the mixing tricks in Madcows Video, or even stunt setups).

    So, if you are using a NB 4 or a PRIZM 5.1, a 3.7v Battery, and a RGrB Tri-Cree, Here is the setup I came up with for your colors:

    The goal of the resistor is to define the maximum current for a LED die, not to mix the color of the blade. (Soundcard manual)
    If you were to use these colors in you blade with Red wired to L1, Green to L2, an Royal Blue to L3 (through a PEX for the NB 4), you would need these resistor(s)/settings:
    Red would need a (3.7v-2.65vf)/1A=1.05ohm or 1ohm-2w-resistor.
    Green would need a (3.7v-3.7vf)/1A=0ohm resistor . It is best practice to put some limit on current (just in case), and you can do so by adjusting the “drive” and “fdrive” parameters. In is case the value of 1023 = no current limit (or 100% from the battery, which can vary in it’s actual voltage) you can set the value at 98%, or 1003 to be safe. (I.E. never go above 1003 as a value)
    Royal Blue would need a (3.7v-3.4vf)/1A=0.3ohm resistor. Once again you can use the “drive” and “fdrive” parameters. Set it at 1023*(3.4/3.7)=940 (or 92%). (I.E. never go above 940 as a value)

    A rough color guide in the Soundcard manual suggests a “drive” setting of “drive=1023,255,0” or 100% Red, 25% Green, 0% rBlue for an Orange Main Blade Color.
    A rough color guide in the Soundcard manual suggests a “fdrive” setting of “fdrive=1023,1003,0” or 100% Red, 98% Green (as that is the max without a resistor in the circuit), 0% rBlue for a Yellow FOC Blade Color. (The swaps out the Orange, and replaces it with Yellow for the FOC flashes).

    The section in the NB 4 manual, “FOC mixing Techniques” looks to be explaining how to have the FOC more dynamic, which with your color choices, is not needed (you can ignore that section for an Orange Main Blade and Yellow FOC using the configuration above).

    Changing drive and fdrive values is not the most efficient process (remove the SD card, change values, return the SD card), nor the most accurate (linear drive of battery voltage, is NOT a current regulator), but I’m sure you can get it to work, opposed to upgrading to a more expensive sound card with the “color extender” add-on board.

    You could do the same logic for a custom tri-Cree, resistoring (or max drive values) and then tweak the drive values to get the colors you like.
    It was certainly easier when NB didn't have the color mix. You knew which to choose if you needed certain features then. Just found out about that myself. I chose a subtler flash on clash because it seemed like it would be more realistic than a full white shift.

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