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Thread: Please Proofread my design! NBv4/Tri-Cree/18650/Goth Chassis

  1. #1

    Default Please Proofread my design! NBv4/Tri-Cree/18650/Goth Chassis

    Hello all!
    It's been some time since my last build, and the most saber work I've done in the past few years is swap out a bad speaker in my Saberforge Templar.

    So please take a look at the following and offer any insight you may have to what I've got going on. So far, I'm pretty happy with what I have planned, and looking to install some time next week. Thanks for whatever help the community can provide!

    --------

    Saber Project "Mondstrahl" (German for 'Moonbeam,' if you want to know.)


    This is a project for my fiancée's first saber. The hilt is an old Saberforge Arbiter than a friend traded to me. I got the hilt completely empty; there were no led module, sound, or even switches in it. Arbiters look like this:
    SF Arbiter.jpg

    She selected the color, purple, and I set to work.

    For the LEDs, I purchased a custom Tri-Cree from TCSS, choosing Deep Red & Royal Blue, with an Amber as the third for FoC. (I've seen someone else use an Amber for FoC and I LOVED it. Very OT screen-accurate.) The saber will also feature a lighted, momentary 12mm switch with purple accent LED in the first switchhole, with a recharge port wired for kill key in the second.

    The battery will be a single Li-Ion 3.7V, 3400mAh 18650 cell purchased from TCSS. I am planning to wire the LEDs In Parallel.

    Here's what I've got for resistor calculation:

    Deep Red
    fV @ 1A = 2.5V

    R=(3.7-2.5) / 1A
    =(1.2) / 1A
    R= 1.2 Ohms

    P=(3.7-2.5) * 1A^2
    =(1.2) * 1A
    P= 1.2 Watts

    I have decided I want to slightly overdrive the Deep Red for brightness, so I have selected a 1 Ohm, 2 Watt resistor to be wired between the (-) pad on the tri-cree module and the L1- on the NBv4.


    I used the same math on the other LEDs, subbing their respective forward voltages. So for brevity's sake, here are just the results for the other LEDs in the main module.

    Royal Blue
    fV @ 1A = 3.4V

    R=0.3 Ohms
    P=0.3 Watts

    Amber
    fV @ 1A = 3.28V

    R=0.72 Ohms
    P=0.72 Watts

    At this point, my planned solution for these is to adjust the parameters on the NB microSD to lessen the current, since I've not found a resistor solution in those small increments.


    Finally, for the accent LED in the switch, here's what I've got.

    Purple Accent LED
    fV @ 3.0V = 20mA (0.02A)

    Voltage off of the NBv4 Aux pad = 3.3V

    R=(3.3-3.0) / 0.02A
    =(0.3) / 0.02A
    R= 15 Ohms

    P=(3.3-3.0) * 0.02A^2
    =(0.3) * 0.0004
    P= 0.00012 Watts

    That is a tiny amount of Wattage! My solution for this was to get the Variable Ohm Resistor from TCSS, which drives an accent LED at 20mA and solves that problem very easily.

    I have purchased a Goth Custom NB/18650 cell Chassis for the internals of this saber. The ID and OD should be perfect, but I'm waiting on the parts from them to check for sure. This will be a bit of a tight fit, but I think it's all going to be OK.

    If you got this far, thank you for proofreading my calculations and I look forward to reading your comments and suggestions!


    -Silver

  2. #2

    Default

    For the switch led resistor, in lieu of the dynaohm (which is fine), you can use a resistor with a Higher wattage rating. The ohms reduce the current, the wattage rating is the amount of power the resistor can handle. Using a resistor with a higher wattage rating than “needed” will not harm your circuit. A 1/4 watt resistor would work fine, and take up less space than the dynaohm.

  3. #3

    Default

    NB's have issues with non-resistored LEDs. I would suggest the 0.47 ohm/0.5w ones on your blue and amber legs. They are cheap and tiny.

    Good luck with your build.

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