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Thread: Recharge port in 3d printed chassis

  1. #1
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    Default Recharge port in 3d printed chassis

    Hi everyone.

    I recently got a GOTH-3D chassis system. They are great so far! How do I install my switchcraft recharge port into the recharge port section (piece: GCM110-02-V2 - Recharge Port 2.1mm)? I can’t fit it through the small hole. How do I secure it once it is in? Also, how is it secured to the speaker holder (GCM110-03-03 - 28mm Bass speaker holder)? 4-40 rods slide in, but don’t actually secure to the holder in any way.

    Thanks so much!

  2. #2

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    You may need to sand/file the hole to clean it. I've not used this exact part before. Is it a close tight fit for the recharge port?

    Mounting should be the threaded 4-40 rods pass through this part freely and screw into the speaker holder (based on other's I've used )

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    Quote Originally Posted by Warlock View Post
    You may need to sand/file the hole to clean it. I've not used this exact part before. Is it a close tight fit for the recharge port?

    Mounting should be the threaded 4-40 rods pass through this part freely and screw into the speaker holder (based on other's I've used )
    Thanks warlock,

    I don’t know what kind of method I’m supposed to use to fasten the recharge port. For now, the hole is too small to put it through. The speaker holder has holes, but no threading for the rods.

  4. #4

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    Can you screw the recharge port into the hole?

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    I've used that part, and I found the fit to be tight as well. I screwed the recharge port in there, but it was not easy. I thought about sanding a little, but I definitely didn't want to enlarge the hole too much.

  6. #6

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    I enlarged the hole with a drill bit the same outer diameter as the recharge port threads. It is secured with a nut, which for me came with the port. I also needed to trim the legs of the port slightly, otherwise they protruded from from the insertion hole a little bit.

    I ended up not liking this part very much because the chassis has to slide significantly out of the saber in order to expose the recharge port, putting stress on the wiring to the LED and switches. I've used the GCM111-03-04 part in other builds, and much prefer it. If your saber design allows for removing the body of the saber without disturbing the upper wiring, you won't have my problem.
    Last edited by jalex000; 01-12-2018 at 01:26 PM.

  7. #7

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    I had the same problem with the 3D printed speaker holder from Goth 3Designs. Maybe he meant for those to be glued on to the rods. *shrugs* Turns out, some of the MHS speaker holders will work with some of his 1.24" dia. chassis. Like this one for example...

    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...kers-P661.aspx

    The holes in the bottom of that speaker holder are threaded for 4-40 rods and line up nicely with the Goth chassis that I have.

    http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y23...0Saber%20Hilts

    From Wikipedia: "Internet Explorer slows down GIFs if the framerate is 20 frames per second or higher and Microsoft reports that Google Chrome and Safari also slow down some GIF animations."

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    Thanks everyone.

    I tried screwing in the port, but it was such a tight fit and I had to torque so hard I ended up shearing some of the black coating next to the legs. Should I replace the port, or is that not really a safety concern? The speaker mounts from TCSS, are awesome, but unfortunately won’t align with the board holder I have.

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