Does anyone know the dimensions of MHS v1 chassis disks?

[Ethan]

Hello, as some of you might have seen in my last post, I am beginning to work on my first saber. I think I've come up with a final design, which, if any of you care to see it, an image of which is attached to this post. I decided that it would be nice to include a simple crystal chamber on the inside of this saber (nothing too complicated, just a simple cylinder with some fins), however, when one removes the core to see the crystal, I didn't want there to be an ugly pcb (no offence to plecter labs, green pcbs just don't fit the star wars aesthetic ) there as well, so I made some rough (not final) designs for a set of shrouds that would act as the spacers for the disks, as well as cover up the electronics (an image of my chassis design is also attached). I'm probably going to have these pieces 3d printed by a company like shapeways, as I don't have access to the kind of printer needed to print things with overhangs like these have. However, as I said, I haven't come up with the final design yet, as to do that, I need the exact dimensions of the chassis disks (specifically the diameter of the holes for the threaded rods, and the distance they are from the edge or center). I could wait to make the final design until I get the parts for my saber, but I would rather not have to wait for another order once I get the parts for my saber (I'm impatient ), so if any of you have an MHS v1 chassis disk sitting around, and wouldn't mind taking a few seconds to measure them with a set of calipers, it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Ethan

Lightsaber_Chassis_Prizm_with_shroud_pieces_2017-Dec-31_12-30-23AM-000_CustomizedView38291377764.jpg
Custom_Lightsaber_2_v3_Etched_2017-Dec-29_04-41-51AM-000_CustomizedView17118092159.jpg

[darth_chasm]

All the dimensions are on the individual product page of each disk.

[Ethan]

are you sure? on the product pages for the pcb/battery holders, and the charge port holder, as far as I can tell it only says that they are made of 3/16 acrylic and fit in the 1.25" ID chassis, and on the product pages for the chassis discs (aluminum), it has the dimensions for the other holes, but not the holes that are meant to line up with the holes of the acrylic sections, which are the ones I am looking for (I believe I stated that in my post, but maybe it wasn't clear enough).

[darth_chasm]

Yep, absolutely sure. Discs 1, 2, 4, and 5 all have matching holes for the acrylic discs. Disc 4 has 4-40 threaded holes, the rest are unthreaded at .116” diameter. They are all on the outer row on a 1.05” circle.

[Ethan]

ah, I realize that it has the position of the holes that don't line up with the acrylic section, but I'm looking for the placement of the holes meant to line up with the acrylic sections, which I don't believe are there.

[bigkevin61]

The Acrylic Chassis Discs are 0.177 inches "Thick". It is just easier to say 3/16 inches.
The Disc I have (that is designed to fit inside the 1.25" inner diameter MHS v1 Parts) has a 1.246 inches in diameter.

As for the spacing of the holes, there are 2 configurations, 2 rod (opposite each other) and 3 rod (in a triangle) that are used for the discs and parts that fit inside the 1.25" inner diameter MHS v1 Parts. (you see the V4 and V5 speaker mounts have threaded holes for both these configurations)
They are both on the same distance from center. You can see that in this part: Acrylic Chassis Disc 2 hole to 3 hole adapter - S9

You can see in the Part: Chassis Disc style 4 that the outer set of (threaded) holes have 5 in total, 3 in the orientation for the 3 rod configuration, and and additional two for the 2 rod configuration.

The Part: Chassis Disc style 5 gives the hole size (for the rod), and the diameter of the "Circle" the holes reside. The part description says "The outer row of holes is three .116" diameter on a 1.05" circle. With a .1875" sleeve on the all thread (1.2375" od circle), it will fit inside 1.25" bore". Essentially, with the thread sleeve on the rods, the "outer" diameter of that setup would be 1.2375 inches, or just SMALLER than the disc itself, at 1.246 inches.
NOT a lot of room to have a plastic shell fabricated to enclose the electronics. Obviously, without the thread sleeve, you would get a wee bit more space to work with.

[Ethan]

so is the outer row (1.05 diameter), the diameter of the circle with the holes that line up with the acrylic? If so, I think that should still work with my design. as you can see in the attached image of the side profile of one of my rough designs, (in which I accounted for a hole further to the edge than that of one on a 1.05" circle), the way the wall of the shroud intersects the part that the rod goes through, it can be thicker than the distance between the 4-40 rod and the edge of the disc
Lightsaber_Chassis_Prizm_with_shroud_pieces_2017-Dec-31_02-37-49AM-000_CustomizedView34635335690.jpg

[bigkevin61]

For the record, The CENTER point of holes on the "outer row" (which is used for the "2 rod (opposite each other) configuration" used by the Acrylic Chassis Discs for 1.25" ID MHS v1 Parts) is 0.525" radius from the centerline of the cylindrical part (and 1.05" diameter).
Each Hole for a rod is 0.058" radius (or 0.116" in diameter).
If you would put a rod sleeve (purchased from the store), which is 0.09375" in radius (or 0.1875" in diameter / OD) over the outer rod hole, the outermost edge of the sleeve material would be 0.61875" in radius from the centerline of the cylindrical part, OR 1.2375" in diameter (or could be considered a 1.2375" OD circle).

So, the ID of a standard MHS v1 part is 1.25" ID (give or take a ten thousandth)
The OD of a Acrylic Chassis Disc for said part, is 1.246" OD (give or take a thousandth). That is why they can fit inside the part.
If you were to put Sleeve Spacer over the rod on a Acrylic Chassis Disc for said part, the OD of the farthest outward points on the rods would be 1.2375" OD (give or take a ten thousandth). Once again, that would fit inside the Acrylic Chassis Disc by just a small bit (to help account for slight variations in tolerance).

It sounds like you are trying to get EXACT measurements, without buying a part to measure.

You know, the discs you will use in between your "design for a cover", are relatively cheap, at $3.99 for the Acrylic (and $5.25/$5.75 for the metal).
There is no substitute for getting the parts in hand for yourself.

[bigkevin61]

so is the outer row (1.05 diameter), the diameter of the circle with the holes that line up with the acrylic? If so, I think that should still work with my design. as you can see in the attached image of the side profile of one of my rough designs, (in which I accounted for a hole further to the edge than that of one on a 1.05" circle), the way the wall of the shroud intersects the part that the rod goes through, it can be thicker than the distance between the 4-40 rod and the edge of the disc
Lightsaber_Chassis_Prizm_with_shroud_pieces_2017-Dec-31_02-37-49AM-000_CustomizedView34635335690.jpg

In THEORY, the design you made COULD work.

It actually depends on what components will be inside (and if you use the Store's Acrylic Chassis Discs).
I've bought and used a few, for different soundboards, with different battery sizes.
On SOME Discs, there is a VERY THIN section of disc, that may be thinner than what you have 3D printed.
For example, the "thin" sections on this part Acrylic Chassis Disc for PC and 14500 side by side pack - S5 are really REALLY thin! The Product Description even says, "Some sections are very thin so you must be very careful and there will be no warranty if you break them"

This is why I say that having the parts, YOUR parts for YOUR build would help you make sure the "covers" you design, and commission, are a correct fit.

[Ethan]

true, the covers will have to be very thin, but in my design, they are only .05" thick, which when compared side by side with images of the PC and 18650 holder (which I will be using to hold a prizm sound module), don't appear to be much thicker, if they are at all. If that is a problem though, printing discs to hold my battery and sound card shouldn't be too hard, and given their design, they would be a part I wouldn't have to send off to someone else to have made.