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Thread: Chassis brainstorm help appreciated

  1. #1

    Default Chassis brainstorm help appreciated

    Hey all! I finished a hilt that I really dig, it's a total junk saber, all spare parts! But I'm afraid I built a hilt that's too difficult to wire up at my skill level. (Which is novice)

    I say this because the inner diameter of this hilt changes. At the pommel, I have about 2 and a half inches of normal MHS v1. Then I have about 4 and a half inches of 1 inch inner diameter, so I guess that's MHS v2.

    The shop doesn't have any adapters for using both chassis sizes in one saber. (if one exists, please correct me, as I think that is my solution)

    And try as I might, I can't find any tutorials for making a PVC chassis from scratch that have pictures for a noob like me.

    What do y'all think I should do? I'm always looking for new skills to try out.

    Thanks everybody!
    Last edited by Vereous; 12-30-2017 at 11:16 AM. Reason: Clarification
    Player: I feel your anger, master.
    Darth Baras: A blind, deaf, comatose, lobotomy patient could feel MY ANGER!!

  2. #2

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    Are you using MHS V2 parts for the smaller diameter, or are you just guessing that it would be equivalent to a v2 size? Also a pic of said saber may be very helpful here.
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  3. #3

    Default

    I read ya loud and clear! Im off work now, so i can post pics and dive into this!

    IMG_20171230_155052 CROP.jpg
    Heres the hilt put together. Again, its a scrap build, i admit i threw it together and kinda just got lucky that the parts fit so well with that shroud.

    IMG_20171230_155525 crop2.jpg
    Here again taken apart.

    Now, i was planning on using an MHS speaker mount v4 and having it extend into that pommel. If the speaker is right up against the lip for the pommel insert, then the MHS builder says i have about 2 inches with that 3/4" male/female extension. As the pics show, that screws onto the lower 1.25" sink tube adapter. So the 2.5 inches i guessed earlier was off. I tried building that section's chassis but it was too long by maybe 3/16ths of an inch. I had my speaker mount, the recharge port chassis disks, and the NB disks.

    Im not using MHS v2 parts, but i am using two MHSv1 to 1.25" sink tube adapters. I know that those adapters have a 1" ID. So they may not the exact spacial tolerances as the MHSv2, but theyre darn close. I thought it would be rad to make a custom pvc chassis that is mhsv1 sized at pommel but is mhsv2 sized going into the grip section.

    Parting note: has anyone ever managed to fit a recharge port into a Box Style 1? is that a pipe dream? Because mounting a box1 onto that sabers spine with a recharge port and a switch 22 would probably be perfect.
    Player: I feel your anger, master.
    Darth Baras: A blind, deaf, comatose, lobotomy patient could feel MY ANGER!!

  4. #4

    Default

    Put the battery in the 1” ID section using the V2 acrylic chassis parts. Use a CD2 disk in the front of the rear section. Center the V2 acrylic disc over the CD2 disc sent use a center punch to mark your hole for a 440 rod to hold your V2 chassis discs for your battery. Then drill a 1/2” or so hole in the CD2 disc to run your wires.

  5. #5

    Default

    Hahahahaha thank you K6gad!!! I totally forgot about the blank disks!! I feel really stupid for that, it's so simple!

    So I can still use speaker mount v4 with my NB disks, then connect them to a blank that I have connecting to the mhsv2 battery disks. Got it. Oh! And if it's CD1, it can lock to my adapter with the 3/4 extension! That's perfect! But I'm still strapped for space with my recharge port and a switch.

    I had a neat idea that a switch 22 could go in the top adapter, under the gasket grip to keep the hilt uniform and pretty.

    You guys have any thoughts on the box 1 idea?
    Last edited by Vereous; 12-31-2017 at 04:07 PM. Reason: Spelling. And content.
    Player: I feel your anger, master.
    Darth Baras: A blind, deaf, comatose, lobotomy patient could feel MY ANGER!!

  6. #6

    Default

    Hey @Vereous ! If you simply wired the Recharge Port in and dropped it into the Control Box V1 it would lay on its side beneath the clampcard when you "closed the hatch". Line the inside of the box with some foam weather stripping or the like to prevent the Recharge Port from bouncing around in there all day! You'd have all sorts of room at one end or the other to install a small switch of some sort.

    Good Luck on your chassis build!

    p.s. Just in case you haven't seen one, Control Box V1 actually looks like this...
    http://www.jqsabers.com/wp-content/u...nboxstyle1.jpg
    Last edited by Ridire Fíréan; 01-01-2018 at 10:00 AM. Reason: Picture Link

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