LED Die Dimensions
Hey guys, brand new builder here. I was just wondering.. What is the diameter of the Cree Tri XP-2 LED star? It's not listed in the store under specifications - or if it is, I can't find it.
For that matter, is there an LED die holder part available? Do I bolt it directly to the heatsink? (Would http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/He...ole-P1011.aspx be the right piece?)
I'm doing my own chassis build (ambitious, I know, for a first build)
Any help gratefully received!
You attach the led star directly to the heat sink. You do not need the part you linked if using a mhs emitter.
Ah, thanks. I won't be using an MHS hilt, but knowing that I attach it directly to the heatsink is useful.
Just how warm do these things get, anyway?
Depends on construction. They sell 2 heat sinks in the shop. A bigger one and a smaller flatter one. Some of these sabers get hot enough to need the bigger ones. You do basically have 3 powerful LEDs each strong enough to power a decent flashlight right next to each other. If left on with enough battery I have heard of sabers that become difficult to handle without gloves.
The standard LEDs for saber blades are mounted on a 20mm dia. PCB.
If you looking for an LED/heat sink module that holds the LED and lens in place when outside of the saber, there are actually ten different heat sinks in the shop that do that. For non-MHS and non-sink tube sabers, I recommend either of the two that are designed to fit in a 1" dia, or the one that fits in a 7/8" dia. For the 7/8" diameter one, you will need the LED PCB ground down to a slightly smaller diameter so that it fits. TCSS offers tri-Cree LEDs with both a standard, PCB and one that has been ground down to fit in their 7/8" LED heat sink module.
Here's a link for the LED/heat sink modules for non MHS sabers... http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bl...n-MHS-C15.aspx
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y23...0Saber%20Hilts
From Wikipedia: "Internet Explorer slows down GIFs if the framerate is 20 frames per second or higher and Microsoft reports that Google Chrome and Safari also slow down some GIF animations."
Awesome, thank you so much. Yeah, mine's non MHS, and I should have no trouble fitting one of the 1" dia heat sink modules. So, basically, something like this should work just fine:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/He...ole-P1011.aspx
?
Correct.Originally Posted by Raphael diSanto
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y23...0Saber%20Hilts
From Wikipedia: "Internet Explorer slows down GIFs if the framerate is 20 frames per second or higher and Microsoft reports that Google Chrome and Safari also slow down some GIF animations."
To answer your question “is there an LED die holder part available? Do I bolt it directly to the heatsink?”
The OLD versions of heat sinks used to have spots that you could mount the LED star with screws.
With the current models of heat sink modules (available in the store) you could use, this is what you would need.
1) The LED of your choice Cree-Tri-XP-E2
2) The Heat Sink Module compatible with your saber design
3) A Led Lens compatible with your led
4) Some way to affix the led star to the heat sink, so the heat sink can do it’s job. This needs to thermally conductive. Thermal (silver) paste is an option, but I found the Thermal tape pad is easy to use (just buy a couple in case you accidentally goof it up before attaching it)
The thermal tape would be affixed to the copper heat sink, your wired led star would then be affixed to the tape on the heat sink. You would then pull your wires through the holes in the heat sink. Then you place the lens on top, and screw that assembly into the aluminum module, sandwiching the lens in place.
As for the thickness of the copper part, even if you are running a tri-Cree, as long as you don’t plan on overdriving the leds, and don’t plan on running a main blade color as white (all 3 leds on at the same time), and don’t plan on leaving the saber on from a full charge until it dies (over hour(s) long), then the “skinny” copper heat sink should be fine.
Last edited by bigkevin61; 12-27-2017 at 08:50 PM.
Wow, some fantastic information here. I'm glad I signed up. Thank you so much to everyone who replied. I'm a complete novice to building saber building, but I do have a background in engineering and electronics, and I'm not unfamiliar to the feel of a soldering iron, so I'm trying to muddle my way through, hehe.
So in terms of internal components, it looks like I'm going to need:
Battery
Switch
Speaker
Soundboard (This also controls the LEDs, right?)
LED Star (and associated thermal tape pad)
LED Lens
Heatsink
Recharge Port for the battery
I don't think I need to do anything fancy like R.I.C.E. or anything like that. I'll be happy to get the internals just up and working and all wired up. Once I've got it set with the sounds I want, I don't see any need to change them afterwards. (That's what R.I.C.E. is for, right?)
Am I missing anything?
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