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Thread: Creating my lightsaber

  1. #21

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    Thank you for both your replies. It has been making me feel more confident again about doing this (although I am still not fully there!).

    I have now made some modifications to my parts list:
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Vi...6-715379ec7fd2

    Now, I understand that I can wire up the two green LEDs to one resister and then to the NBv4. As for the white LED, that can have its own resister but will only be activated anyway by the "flash on clash" feature if I wire it up that way. So, I am also wondering whether the speaker needs a resister or whether I need any more electronic components for this to work safely.

    I decided to stick with the removable battery concept (obviously still using a 3.7V li-ion battery) as I quite like the idea of taking it apart (at least a little) when it needs more power. I will need to get a li-ion battery over here as they will not ship those internationally, which is another reason for keeping this as a separate piece.

    I apologise if I have misunderstood anything you have said but I feel I am making some progress here.

  2. #22

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    Hey, no problem!
    Part of the fun of this hobby is working through the whole process, including planning!

    The only thing I’d suggest to change in your wishlist, is the 1ohm 5watt resistor. The wattage is the rating (how much power the resistor can safely handle). So you can go to low (and risk the part failing), but too high doesn’t harm anything. In the case a 5 watt resistor is HUGE. It is actually thicker than the JST connectors are wide. You may be able to use the 1ohm 2watt resistor (which is significantly smaller). Online led resistor calculators will often give you the safe wastage needed.

    The speaker does not need a resistor (that would harm performance).
    You are not using a AV switch with an internal led, so no need for a resistor for that led. (No resistor on the switch wiring).

    As for your li-ion battery, there are European saber shops (online) that you can get the battery from. Their names escape me at the moment, but you can search the forum archives, I know they have been mentioned.

  3. #23

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    Ah, yes. Checking the calculations again, the 1ohm, 2W resistor seems like a better option. As for the other resistor, I simply chose the lowest resistance and wattage as the calculation would suggest that resistors were not required at all. I presume this will not restrict the power too much, even if the two green LEDs are connected by the same wire to the NBv4.

    As for the battery pack, I will look at the other options in more local shops but it will still work with the single cell holder, won't it? Assuming I get a protected 3.7V li-ion cell from the UK?

  4. #24

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    I am uploading a couple of (hopefully) final concepts for the lightsaber.

    First one is the base hilt without any bells and whistles to show where drilling and custom work should be done:
    FinalConceptNaked.jpg

    The next one is with all accessories added for a more complete look:
    FinalConcept.jpg
    Last edited by BaronBlackaby; 01-16-2018 at 03:47 PM. Reason: Altered images

  5. #25

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    Rule of thumb is also, for FoC, you dont need a resistor as its not ON as much, but if you already have it, by all means go ahead and use it.

  6. #26

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    IMG_20180428_120041.jpgIMG_20180428_120049.jpgIMG_20180428_120100.jpgIMG_20180428_120336.jpgIMG_20180428_120404.jpgIMG_20180428_120420.jpg

    So, it has been a while since I have updated this as I wanted to get it all in a good state before posting anything but I have attached pictures of the constructed lightsaber here.

    Unfortunately, I damaged the screw I initially ordered to hold the blade so I have used a replacement and hope to get another button-head copper/bronze screw to replace it. However, everything else is really good.

    I decided that the initial lighting configuration was too green as I wanted more of a paler green like the Knights of the Old Republic Viridian green. To that end, I swapped one of the green LEDs to be the flash-on-clash LED and made the white one one of the two main LEDs. Yes, I did change the resisters to reflect this as well. I have tried new sound fonts too, which is pretty "wizard".

    What do the people here think?
    Last edited by BaronBlackaby; 04-30-2018 at 02:56 AM.

  7. #27

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    Your attachments dont work.

  8. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by PCModulus View Post
    Your attachments don't work.
    Sorry. Not sure why that was as they seemed to work initially. They should work now.

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronBlackaby View Post
    IMG_20180428_120041.jpgIMG_20180428_120049.jpgIMG_20180428_120100.jpgIMG_20180428_120336.jpgIMG_20180428_120404.jpgIMG_20180428_120420.jpg

    So, it has been a while since I have updated this as I wanted to get it all in a good state before posting anything but I have attached pictures of the constructed lightsaber here.

    Unfortunately, I damaged the screw I initially ordered to hold the blade so I have used a replacement and hope to get another button-head copper/bronze screw to replace it. However, everything else is really good.

    I decided that the initial lighting configuration was too green as I wanted more of a paler green like the Knights of the Old Republic Viridian green. To that end, I swapped one of the green LEDs to be the flash-on-clash LED and made the white one one of the two main LEDs. Yes, I did change the resisters to reflect this as well. I have tried new sound fonts too, which is pretty "wizard".

    What do the people here think?
    The first image is interesting. It looks like something is blocking the light from traveling up the blade tube.

    Maybe it's just the photo?

    Regardless, well done!

  10. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by WhillB View Post
    The first image is interesting. It looks like something is blocking the light from traveling up the blade tube.

    Maybe it's just the photo?

    Regardless, well done!
    Yes, it depends on the angle the blade is inserted. I just threw it back on to take the photo but I can get it to light up all the way.

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