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Thread: Creating my lightsaber

  1. #11

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    If Tim is willing to mill slots, they may not be as big or as long, unless you want to pick a different blade holder to give him “more to work with. You can also use a main body section, and remove the smaller pieces.
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  2. #12

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    So, we could possibly make something like this (I added the extra decals again just to help me picture it):
    Saber4.jpg
    My concern is it keeps getting a bit less exciting with each adjustment. It still looks pretty good but what do you think?

  3. #13

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    It looks ok. I don’t know if Tim can make the windows as long as you have them though. That is something you will have to work out with him.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  4. #14

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    Well, if I have that as a basis, there may be some more things I could do to spice it up. Any suggestions would be great but you have been very helpful already.

    So, the next question is, how do I make contact with the mysterious Tim? Do I contact him through the forums or do I need to place an order first?
    Last edited by BaronBlackaby; 01-02-2018 at 12:14 AM.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronBlackaby View Post
    Well, if I have that as a basis, there may be some more things I could do to spice it up. Any suggestions would be great but you have been very helpful already.

    So, the next question is, how do I make contact with the mysterious Tony? Do I contact him through the forums or do I need to place an order first?
    Tim is the owner of The Custom Saber Shop.

    You can message him through the Contact Us page of the store (I just did last month to see if custom work was possible).
    That, or you can e-mail the Shop at "sales@thecustomsabershop.com".
    You may get a reply from another associate (besides Tim), as I received my response from Josh Finehout, who is a/the manager at the shop.

    They are pretty good at getting back in a timely manner, and what you are asking isn't that complicated (though they may need to give feedback to the actual extent they can modify parts, as FJK had mentioned).

  6. #16

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    Thank you very much; that sounds good. I shall do that. It may be good to buy and sort out all the non-electronic components first as it may be complex enough just getting this bit sorted!

  7. #17

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    Another alteration to my concept. This time, the intention is to create a custom hilt piece:
    NewConcept.jpg

  8. #18

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    So, I am happy with the design of the hilt without electronics now. I think that is very workable and still looks great. I am now starting to worry over the electronics; every time I think I have the right idea, I find something else that throws me off.

    So, I would appreciate the support from you guys on the following idea:
    I want to try wiring up a "Green/Green/White Cree XP-E2 CopperNova" with a "Nano Biscotte Sound Module V4" (to get the flash on clash thing), a momentary switch and a "MHS speaker and 2x AA battery holder".
    However, I am worried about what this will mean for wiring it up and what parts to order. I see they do a pre-wired Nano Biscotte, which sounds helpful, but there is no pre-made heatsink module that includes the tri-colour LEDs. I also realise that resistors as important - looking over the calculations, it seemed that I would need 4.7 and 5.6 ohm resisters to go with the 7.4W battery pack but this seems quite high. I also wonder when or why you would need the buckplug.

    As I have said, I am more than happy to read instructions and so some soldering but I need to be clear on what parts I actually need, or else I will not feel comfortable ordering anything!

    I appreciate the advice.

  9. #19

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    In the end you are better off doing all the wiring and soldering yourself in my opinion. I looked at the pre-done parts but for my first saber I eventually decided to just wire it all up on my own because it allowed for greater flexibility in design. Now is a good time to download the nano biscotte manual and start figuring out your wiring diagram, or look through the forums for someone who did an identical setup that worked. This will tell you what resistors you will need so you don't have to order more down the road.

    I would also seriously reconsider the AA battery route. Wiring up a recharge port and a lithium ion battery is pretty easy and SIGNIFICANTLY more convenient then taking apart your lightsaber every time your battery runs down.

    As for a complete list of hardware you will need.... well you can start posting your list and ask for feedback. Also you may want to check the forum as a lot of people have made similar sabers and have posted a hardware list already. This will get you pretty much everything you need.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronBlackaby View Post
    I also realise that resistors as important - looking over the calculations, it seemed that I would need 4.7 and 5.6 ohm resisters to go with the 7.4W battery pack but this seems quite high. I also wonder when or why you would need the buckpluck.
    For ANY setup (With a Sound Card, or without, commonly referred to as a “Stunt” saber), it is recommended to have SOME sort of current regulation on the LED circuit. LED’s will work (light up) when the voltage supply matches (or exceeds) the forward voltage of the LED. From there, the LED will draw current, and depending on the voltage differential, (and changes in operating temperature) could end up drawing more and more current than it can handle (outside the listed operating range), until the LED breaks (POP!). This is why it is recommended to use even a small Ohm resistor if the calculations made may indicate none needed in most setups (the listed specs of an LED may have tolerance variations, and batteries can hold a charge greater than listed, and you wouldn’t want to find out you needed some resistor because of the LED running just a bit off spec, and blows your LED). Rather be safe than sorry, right?
    Now, in stunt setups, you can use a resistor, OR a BuckPuck, which with it’s own electronics, regulate Current at a set value.
    With the sound cards sold here, some DO NOT have any included current regulation, AND would need a resistor added (recommended, but in specific instances listed in the boards manual, other options may be used).
    Other higher end boards DO include current regulation, and would NOT NEED a resistor added.

    The BuckPuck has minimum Input Voltage to work correctly, so in those stunt setups, where the LED needs say, 3.4 Volts, and should operate at 1,000 milliamp, you could use a 1,000 milliamp Buck Puck (in lieu of a resistor) that would NEED at least 2 Volts more than the LED (or in this example, 5.4 Volts) to work, and you could use a 7.4 Volt Batery Pack. The “excess voltage” isn’t an issue.

    The Sound Cards sold here are designed to operate within specific input voltage ranges, and typically (using an li-ion battery), either one 3.7 volt battery or a 7.4 volt battery pack.

    In your choice of a Nano Biscotte v4, there is NO included current regulator, so in MOST cases you would use a resistor to safely light your LED from your board. The NBv4 has a max input voltage of 5.5 Volts, and CANNOT be wired with a 7.4 volt battery pack!

    The NBv4, a 3.7 volt li-ion battery, and the LED you listed, the GGW tri-cree, would for GREEN, calculate out to need “no” resistor. But as stated before, there is an possible option listed in then NBv4 manual, OR, just place a small, say 1 ohm resistor, in the led circuit, just to make sure you are safe. For WHITE, it would calculate out to need 0.6 ohm resistance (you could use a 0.62 ohm resistor, or just a use an 1 ohm as well). Having a slightly larger resistor will have a minimal impact in brightness.
    Last edited by bigkevin61; 01-06-2018 at 06:48 PM.

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