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Thread: Initial Attempt. Need help breaking it down into manageable orders.

  1. #1

    Default Initial Attempt. Need help breaking it down into manageable orders.

    This is my first list attempt. I will also be posting a wiring diagram in the appropriate location. (Hopefully!)
    My intention is to break this list down into several purchase orders to help defray the full cost into manageable payments. And to keep the wife from kicking my butt! Any help and suggestions on what is better to buy first, or second, etc. would be appreciated.

    Hilt Style 5
    Blade Holder 9
    Choke Style 1 Short
    Male / Female Extension MF1 placed between main body and pommel. Powder coated translucent Brass.
    Pommel 8
    Insert 6
    MPS Clip
    AV Bezel
    16mm Long latching AV switch Blue
    Pico Crumble V2 Light
    2w 28mm Bass Speaker
    Speaker Mount V5
    Cree TRI XP E2 Coppernova R/G/B LED
    Heat sink style 3
    Recharge Port
    LI-ION 18650 3.7v 2600mAh PCB Protected battery Not sure if I have the right one. Will bring it up in the other post!
    Chassis Disc 5
    Momentary to Latching Convertor 2.2 16v
    4-40 All Thread
    Brass 3/16OD Tube
    Brass 3/16 OD Spacers Various Lengths
    DynaOhm20mA
    9 Electronics Shield
    Wire
    Various Acrylic Discs


    Anything missing?
    Thanks for looking it over and giving me feedback.

    paedryn1.jpg

    The design is meant to have an accent color on the extension piece to break up the single color of the rest of the hilt.

  2. #2

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    I am not the best at this type of thing but what I noticed is that you have a latching switch plus a converter for same. You also have a sound card. When using a sound card you don't need a latching switch or converter. Just buy the momentary switch.

  3. #3

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    Ack! I posted an older list!

    Thank you minorhero, I will adjust it

  4. #4

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    As Minor Hero mentioned, you do not need Momentary to Latching Converter (or Latching Switch) when using a sound card.

    On the Topic of Sound Card, I would ask, "what you want your saber to do?"

    The Pico Crumble was made for a specific purpose in mind.
    From the Board's Manual, it says "The Pico aims to be installed in production sabers to be used by the largest amount of people and a diversity of users. It doesn't have changeable sounds and comes only in 2 flavors: a good guy version and a bad guy version. It's also simplified to accommodate both large scale assembly, with reduced to no configuration, and lower cost."
    Basically, a sabersmith could make a run of sabers, all built the same way (with an RGB led opposed to specific dedicated colored leds), and be able to set a color profile for the end user through the board, opposed to swapping out the led.
    Also from the manual: "The board uses a set of 15 static color profiles. The service menu allows only selecting which profile to use, not to define them. The board was though & designed with the use of a RGB in mind and the ability to do 2 things:
    • Have zero specific wiring to produce a specific color during production
    • Be able to repurpose a saber from color A to color B with no wiring operation and in a short time."
    Also, Also from the manual: "It has to be mentioned that the board settings are stored in FLASH memory. The latter has a limited cell endurance of minimum 10,000 cycles, which remains less than common SD cards. This explains why the menu and settings edition is primarily targeted as a *service* menu and not as a user color selection feature."

    For a miniscule $10 more there is a lot more you can get from a Nano Biscotte in the way of "ease" in wanting to change or adjust settings, including the color profiles associated with the 3 fonts you can use. You could also CHANGE the fonts themselves if you prefer.
    There would be a *little* more work to get a RGB led wired up (You would need a PeX for the 3rd color), but if you are investing the time to build your own saber, it isn't more to learn and do.

    I've made a couple of sabers with (older versions) of the Nano Biscotte, and I'd choose that over a Pico Crumble for something I built for me.

    I'd suggest looking though the Sound Card's Manuals to get familiar as to what they do, and what it takes to wire them up.
    THEN you can make the decision as to which is best for your needs/budget.
    Last edited by bigkevin61; 12-26-2017 at 03:40 PM.

  5. #5

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    The other thing to think about is your switch.

    You are getting a main body (Hilt style 5).
    You are given a choice to what switch hole to have drilled (if any).
    The "Machine 16mm AV switch hole" is just that, a hole. The switch will NOT sit flush with the body without a Bezel (Part# AVbezel).
    If you want to the switch to sit flush and be "even" with the body, chose "Machine recessed 16mm AV switch hole". This will give a flat surface on the body for the switch to sit flat against.

    "Long" AV Switches would NOT be needed in your design (you don't need a latching switch).
    I'd suggest using a "Short" Momentary 16mm AV Switch.

    If you get a Switch hole drilled in the body, they are NOT threaded, and you have to affix the switch to your saber in some fashion. You COULD use hot glue, or the like, BUT that doesn't help if you need to disassemble it later. Most will use the included nut with the switch.
    There is a trick with using the nut, as the inside of the saber body isn't flat, and makes tightening the nut difficult.
    If you get the "Machine recessed 16mm AV switch hole" drilled, you can use the standard AV Bezel (mentioned above) on the INSIDE, with the curved parts against the inside of the body, leaving the flat side to sit flush to the nut.
    Last edited by bigkevin61; 12-26-2017 at 04:15 PM.

  6. #6

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    If you are planning on using the recharge port in the pommel, how do you plan on mounting the speaker inside your saber?

    There are a number of choices in the Chassis section of the store, but none of them provide a way to run wires past the speaker to the pommel insert.
    You will have to customize the chassis part yourself to get that to work.

    These are a few of the things you would need to think about if trying to minimize the expense (as in NOT ordering something, and finding out it will not work).

    Now, Chassis Parts in general aren't that expensive (and i have a bunch extra I ordered, incase I needed to change the chassis design) and it isn't cost prohibitive.

    There would just be some design choices when ordering the expensive stuff (soundcard, body, etc) you would want to have figured out before making an order.

    To recap:
    1) Which Soundcard (based on what you want your saber to do) READ THE MANUALS and READ THEM AGAIN!
    2) Switch Placement and parts needed to secure.
    3) Recharge port in the Pommel? (there are other options using switch "boxes", like Part # BOX9, that could avoid having to modify parts to get wires past the speaker to the pommel)
    4) General Chassis layout (But you can order more parts without a large expense increase, which would same time, hassel and additional shipping costs for re-orders).

    There are a few sticky threads in the forums that cover some of these choices (I think there is a Chassis one that may prove helpful).
    Also look though some build logs for visuals and inspiration on how the layout of a saber can go.

  7. #7

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    Thank you for your time and input bigkevin61. As I had written, I had posted the wrong list and I just now have had the time to get back.

    I want the switch up from the hilt and planned on using the bezel to do it. I don't want it as flush as others have done, so that was planned with that in mind. And I chose the Pico for the very reason you mentioned: so I didn't have to hook up to change the color of the blade.

    I have spent quite a bit of time reading the different manuals, jumping back and forth while trying to figure out a wiring diagram and different components. Just as I thought I had it, something would pop out at me and I was running back to do more research.

    I don't want you to think I don't appreciate your input! Far from it! I am glad that your questions and knowledge have made me look at those areas again.

    My first post, I made myself look like a fool and asked about something I hadn't found. I feel pretty sad my first contact with the board was a dumb question. I still have a LOT to learn.

    I was wondering more about what parts to order first? Outer components? Inner electronics? That is something I could use to make the build progress forward without waiting and being unable to do anything in between orders.

    Here is my current list.

    Main Body: Style 5
    Blade Holder: Style 7
    Choke: Style 1 Short
    Pommel: Style 8
    Insert: Style 6
    MPS Clip

    Adapter: Male/Female Extension Placed between Pommel / Main Body with Brass Translucent Powder Coat

    Speaker: 2w 28mm Bass Speaker
    Speaker Holder: Style V5

    Red/Green/Royal Blue Cree XP-E2 CopperNova

    Pico Crumble V2
    Recharge Port: Switchcraft 2.1mm
    Bezel
    16mm AV Illuminated Latching-Blue
    Li-Ion 18650 Battery (3.7 or 7.4 still researching. Also looking at mAh needs)

    DynaOhm Resistor
    Chassis Disc Style 2
    4-40 All Threaded (2)
    Various Brass Spacers
    Nut (2)
    Wire

    Screw insert for Blade holding 8/32



    I hope that makes my intention easier to understand. Again, sorry for the confusion. I have added the how to sections to my bookmarks and subscribed to the Youtube channel. I keep going back to those videos just to verify the notes I am taking!

    You were saying I wouldn't need a latching switch? Does Pico wire up to act as a momentary to latching converter? I will go read it again. And I still need to research the battery needs. From what I have read, the 18650 is preferred for the Pico, but I am still stumbling over if I should use the 3.7 or 7.2 and what mAh I will need. Any help in directing me to the information would really make my day!

    Once again sir, I cannot thank you enough for taking your time to respond to a poorly written, failed to proof read, post. I hope that I will have the chance to talk with you more.

    Happy New Year!

  8. #8

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    Oh! I forgot to mention that the recharge port should fit below the speaker. I will need to make a small cut into the speaker holder to allow the the wires to pass. I have researched that very question and talked with others about it. I can't guarantee that it will work until I have the parts in front of me, but I have high hopes!

    Thanks again!

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paedryn View Post
    Oh! I forgot to mention that the recharge port should fit below the speaker. I will need to make a small cut into the speaker holder to allow the the wires to pass. I have researched that very question and talked with others about it. I can't guarantee that it will work until I have the parts in front of me, but I have high hopes!

    Thanks again!
    I saw that post too. I’ve made modifications to the speaker holder to route wires past to the pommel (for an accent led).
    Doing so, is not that difficult, especially with the right tools and some patience (don’t rush, as ruining and reordering parts is not fun).

    In you other post, another member replied asking if there would be enough room in your pommel for the recharge port (based on the pommel style you chose).
    Using Pommel Style 8 (a long pommel), would help, but using speaker holder 5, with the ridge to lock the speaker between the pommel and the rest of the saber may or may not have enough room depending on if you lock it between the pommel and extension, or between the extension and the body.
    In an early version of one of my designs, I was planning on doing the same as you (recharge in the pommel insert), but the additional issues about enough space for not only the recharge port, but the wires (that have to be pre twisted to compensate for the pommel to be threaded on) scared me off the idea, and I went with using “Box 9” instead.

    To address your concern about what to buy first (as you clarified was the intent of this post), I believe (and I believe others have said on this forum as well), that building / laying out the intervals of the saber FIRST, and building the body around it, is “easier” than building a body, and then trying to figure out a way to cram everything in.
    So, I’d go with buying the chassis stuff first (it is a bit cheaper too). I’d also suggest getting some of the electronics, and wiring parts of them up, as the one thing that I was not prepared for, was how much space the actual wires, dynaohm and jst connectors a take up inside the saber (which is surprisingly A LOT).
    I saw your post on the wiring diagram, and using the connectors, etc you had in the layout will add to your “space” needs.
    There is no substitute than actually having parts in hand. That should help you address the space needed for the recharge post in your pommel.

  10. #10

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    Again, thank you sir. I will take your advice and save the outer casing for last. That is excellent advice. I really hope the recharge port will fit in the pommel, but I will be aware I may need to change my design.

    Have a great New Year!

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