Quote Originally Posted by Tom Tilmon View Post
With MHS there is a LED adapter that sits right in, and gets captured by the first connecting piece. MHS is really an ingenius deal. No need for a LED retention screw, as there is a lip on the LED module that is captured. This is for the MHS neopixel adapter too, which I'm using in Nihilus II.

Its very minimalistic from a metal hilt pieces perspective. You can do a MHS V6 chassis, and get away from the fixed chassis to make yours shorter. You can also cut the TCSS Shroud in one piece swallow tail for the terminal shroud piece at the tail. Instead of using a dremel to cut the shroud and pipe, I am now using my chop saw with a metal cutting blade. This isn't ideal, as the RPMs on the chop saw are too high for metal, and the cut is more melted than cut, which leaves for a lot of filing on my end to clean up my cuts. Filing and dremels, that is the lot of my life on builds like this. BTW, the metal blade on a chop saw (mitre saw) is ILL-ADVISED and dangerous. I stand to the side whilst cutting, out of the path of any blade destructo. I've seen a guy at the ER with a metal cutting blade through his forearm. Dremel metal-cutting wheels are equally dangerous. Safety glasses, face shield, and full leathers/carhart are advised. Whenever I finish a cut, I breathe a sigh of relief, and now I want to do a mitred cut on that front-most piece to help me to shape it to match the curves more. This saber won't be done until the end of summer, unless some miracle happens. I'm hoping it will be awesome when done. I'm about to order the new speaker for it too, the Adrian Tan one from TCSS. I'm very excited about this build.

Tom
Are you using a metal wood cutting blade loaded backwards, or an actual fiber metal cutting blade?