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Thread: MHS Nihilus Custom Build

  1. #11

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    There are some fine lines that are over-shadowed by the deeper gouges. That guy wanted "massive defects on the outside". I never would have gone that deep a personal saber, that was his request. If you zoom in, you can see some of the finer lines I can do with a dremel etching tip. That is more my speed. This one will be "less weathered/damaged". It will still look rough and used, but not quite that bad. I found some pipe that goes over the TCSS shroud. So, I can shroud over a pommel and layer on top of that. This one will be more 3 dimensional. I'm shooting for brass switch hats on tactile switches for this build. I'm also going to be spending a lot more time on the chassis. That chassis was a budget, I need it now build. I want to be a bit more time-intensive on this one. Hidden wires, extensively detailed crystal chamber. I am contemplating a blast hole on crystal chamber to reveal it when hilt is on, and to allow more resonance and volume.

    I have big plans, but this saber will take me months. I've got all kinds of trinkets, hard drives, etc. all apart to pick through for CC Greeblies and blinkies. I'm excited, but this project will probably be an extensive one.

    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  2. #12

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    I look forward to seeing this build. It sounds like its going to be EPIC.

    Based on what I have seen using the saber builder tool and looking for blank aluminum stock online, I think I will just buy the empty Holocron hilt and go from there. It's a few extra dollars, but a lot of the initial work is already done. I might add some set screws to give the glued joints more stability.

  3. #13

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    If you can find a Holocron, there is nothing wrong with starting out with that. Kit hilts are good to learn with/from. Once you master that, and get it as good as you can get it, then perhaps you may set out to make your own out of MHS. I find MHS Sabers very rewarding personally. You have a greater sense of pride and accomplishment; however, when you're just beginning, worrying about hilt construction on top of the install might be a task overload. Good luck with whichever you decide to do! Have fun and make it your own!

    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  4. #14

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    The more I look at this build the more I fall in love with it. I totally get your sentiment about building it yourself. My droid really gives me a lot of pride when I take him out to cons because I know I did all the hard work making him. I do like the idea of MHS being "upgradeable" over time. I think initially I would just get a functional saber, then in the future I would possibly add a crystal chamber etc.

    I have been thinking a lot about this build set up and I just cant think of a way to get a screen in the pommel to protect the speaker.

    I will keep watching your v2 build for more ideas. Your tutorials have been a big help. Thanks for making them!

  5. #15

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    This saber design incorporates a full pommel with the pommel insert (screen). I used TCSS shroud which goes over the pommel, and then I created the swallow tail with the bigger pipe that goes over the shroud. This saber has a pommel and insert! I guess I need to take pictures of that so you believe me. Its there. That is the whole reason I did the re-design of my initial saber, to make it better. I think it will be better in the end. I'm also working on another project, but I have to keep it a secret. Ha. Too many sabers. I'll try to take pictures tonight of the pommel with the insert.

    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Tilmon View Post
    This saber design incorporates a full pommel with the pommel insert (screen). I used TCSS shroud which goes over the pommel, and then I created the swallow tail with the bigger pipe that goes over the shroud. This saber has a pommel and insert! I guess I need to take pictures of that so you believe me. Its there. That is the whole reason I did the re-design of my initial saber, to make it better. I think it will be better in the end. I'm also working on another project, but I have to keep it a secret. Ha. Too many sabers. I'll try to take pictures tonight of the pommel with the insert.

    Tom
    Oh I believe you. I am watching the new build and I can see how you got the pommel insert on the new hilt. I just think the pommel is a bit too bulky for my tastes with that extra layer of shroud on the V2 Nihilus. I like the sleek look of the V1. I suppose I could try brazing an insert to the inside of the hilt down at the pommel end. I don't have access to anyone that can weld aluminum.

    Due to this project, I took up learning Tinkercad. It's really easy to use and I will be designing my own custom chassis parts. Should be good fun!

    Any idea if/when TCSS will restock their inventory?

  7. #17

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    I'm still shaving tons of metal off that outer shroud, and re-working the top one. This is all massively rough draft. This is how I brainstorm. I hack and whack at it until it looks right. Not to mention, file, cut, dremel, sand, polish...........I tinker until I'm happy with the appearance basically. I'm not happy with it yet, but I'm liking the direction. I'm contemplating doing some sculpting in all that massive aluminum, but man that is going to be a lot of work by hand. But it will look good.

    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  8. #18

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    I can appreciate your process. It's similar to the great European marble sculptors of the renaissance! I will sit tight and keep watching that thread but in the meantime I will keep brainstorming for my build. I kinda wish you had a detailed video on how everything went together on the V1 Nihilus. I am trying to get a better understanding in where the optic sits in the emitter. It seems like a retention screw isnt necessary with MHS parts, which is awesome. I really like a more minimalist look. That said, I am trying to think of ideas on how to attach the shroud pieces. I like the way you used screws on yours, but I think I would like to go with something a bit more low profile on my build. Perhaps countersunk into the hilt a bit. Hmmm....

  9. #19

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    With MHS there is a LED adapter that sits right in, and gets captured by the first connecting piece. MHS is really an ingenius deal. No need for a LED retention screw, as there is a lip on the LED module that is captured. This is for the MHS neopixel adapter too, which I'm using in Nihilus II.

    Its very minimalistic from a metal hilt pieces perspective. You can do a MHS V6 chassis, and get away from the fixed chassis to make yours shorter. You can also cut the TCSS Shroud in one piece swallow tail for the terminal shroud piece at the tail. Instead of using a dremel to cut the shroud and pipe, I am now using my chop saw with a metal cutting blade. This isn't ideal, as the RPMs on the chop saw are too high for metal, and the cut is more melted than cut, which leaves for a lot of filing on my end to clean up my cuts. Filing and dremels, that is the lot of my life on builds like this. BTW, the metal blade on a chop saw (mitre saw) is ILL-ADVISED and dangerous. I stand to the side whilst cutting, out of the path of any blade destructo. I've seen a guy at the ER with a metal cutting blade through his forearm. Dremel metal-cutting wheels are equally dangerous. Safety glasses, face shield, and full leathers/carhart are advised. Whenever I finish a cut, I breathe a sigh of relief, and now I want to do a mitred cut on that front-most piece to help me to shape it to match the curves more. This saber won't be done until the end of summer, unless some miracle happens. I'm hoping it will be awesome when done. I'm about to order the new speaker for it too, the Adrian Tan one from TCSS. I'm very excited about this build.

    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  10. #20

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    I was thinking about making the angled cuts on my compound miter saw with a metal blade so thanks for the heads up on the safety suggestion. I want my saber to be able to be double handed so a bit of length will be nice. Honestly, I would probably make mine VERY similar to your V1. I think I am going to go with counter sunk low profile screws. I also think I might make a speaker housing in tinkercad that has its own cover on it that way I can just build my hilt open ended like your V1.

    You know what, I am going to go watch your video again, for about the 134817230481723 time. LOL!

    Can you tell me which LED heatsink module I should pick up for this build? I am planning on a Prizm with an RGrB Tri Cree. Only ones I can find are pre built modules.
    Last edited by G3-R6; 05-03-2018 at 05:00 PM.

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