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Thread: NeoPixel build part list

  1. #31

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    A further question: I bought some 'stretch wrap' stuff that's basically just shipping wrap or say cling wrap - this was meant to be what I wrap the pixels in, but having left them on for a full battery charge I've noticed they get pretty warm.
    Wondering if wrapping them in many layers of insulating plastic stuff is going to be healthy for them? or perhaps even risk melting said plastic to the strips?
    Thinking I might be better of cutting the VV diffuser film in half and just using half of it around the pixels and half of it around the foam. Because as it stands the pixels are basically just lose in the foam.

  2. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by RarestSquirrel View Post
    A further question: I bought some 'stretch wrap' stuff that's basically just shipping wrap or say cling wrap - this was meant to be what I wrap the pixels in, but having left them on for a full battery charge I've noticed they get pretty warm.
    Wondering if wrapping them in many layers of insulating plastic stuff is going to be healthy for them? or perhaps even risk melting said plastic to the strips?
    Thinking I might be better of cutting the VV diffuser film in half and just using half of it around the pixels and half of it around the foam. Because as it stands the pixels are basically just lose in the foam.
    Are you running off a 5v supply right now? They will definitely be much hotter w/5v than off the battery. My original blades were all with white packing foam wrapped around them then that wrapped in clear gift wrap. In the newest blade I made I used the foam tube from TCSS which greatly simplifies the installation. My first blade lasted almost 2 years before I took it apart to rebuild it with a new connector.

  3. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by jbkuma View Post
    Are you running off a 5v supply right now? They will definitely be much hotter w/5v than off the battery. My original blades were all with white packing foam wrapped around them then that wrapped in clear gift wrap. In the newest blade I made I used the foam tube from TCSS which greatly simplifies the installation. My first blade lasted almost 2 years before I took it apart to rebuild it with a new connector.
    Nah, just running off the battery. Don't have a 5v supply other than that, aside from the Nitecore d4 charger I suppose. Its not hot, just warmer than I was expecting.
    Perhaps I'll do a test with it running for a while with some wrapped around a few and report back.
    In either case I'll defs need something to stuff around the pixels, the TCSS foam is far too roomy for the skinny strips.
    Last edited by RarestSquirrel; 01-09-2018 at 11:41 PM.

  4. #34

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    As done as done is going to get before seeing TLJ tomorrow night.
    Did have a slight issue with murdering a 20mm speaker and replacing it with a 27mm that doesn't allow the pommel to screw all the way in.. but ah well.
    In-hilt charging works too, though I did ditch the kill via blade unplug because I couldn't get it to work. Relying on deep sleep mode to save battery.
    Oh! Used clear gift wrap around the strips that was a little thicker than the VV stuff, but its all nice and snug now, if a bit... wonky.

    Can pretty easily see the blue coming through the core along with all the nice greeny glow. Lovely.

    Thank you all for your assistance on this! If any of you are in Melbourne some time, I owe you a beer.









  5. #35

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    I read in the manual for the NBV4 to put in the capacitor next to the strip to help stabilize things. Where and how exactly do you wire that in?

  6. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cloudfeather View Post
    I read in the manual for the NBV4 to put in the capacitor next to the strip to help stabilize things. Where and how exactly do you wire that in?
    I could very well have been wrong, but I put mine on + to + and - to - right at the start of the strips, together with the resistor on the data line.

  7. #37

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    So, one capacitor, wired with one end to the two positive cables and the other to the two negative? If so, this matches the way I've wired low pass filters for speakers in the past.

  8. #38

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    The capacitor can be wired directly to the power pads on the strip, or as close as possible to that.

  9. #39

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    That's even better. Seems it would be better tucked in with the battery holder.

  10. #40

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    Does each leg have to split off and connected to both power strips, or can you just connect it to the POS and NEG of one strip?

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