Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 42

Thread: NeoPixel build part list

  1. #21

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RarestSquirrel View Post
    Hah, nice. I can imagine how that'd work. And don't worry, I think I've got a pretty clear mental picture. Hilt - programming shunt - blade. Maybe?
    Precisely.

    I think the tip just has more material to fluoresce and so it's more pronounced. If you use a blue source it will be even more pronounced with a nearly white tip and ghostly blue core in the blade.
    You can see photos I took here: https://imgur.com/a/kidIw Each photo is about 150mm of clear blade with clear giftwarp butted against a section of amber enhanced with gift wrap and without.

  2. #22

    Default

    Well... this happened.
    Pretty happy with how the chassis turned out.
    Just sitting around waiting for the wire(24 and 28 AWG respectively) along with other soldering supplies now. Exciting.
    Did realise though that I have no space or options for a kill key. Little bit concerned about that one.







    Last edited by RarestSquirrel; 12-15-2017 at 05:57 PM.

  3. #23

    Default

    If you route the ground for the battery through your adapter, then use the blade side connector to bridge it, then the only time the hilt will be powered is when something is pluged in.

    Also, I live a subway ride from Shapeways and I have still gone mostly to FDM unless it's for someone else and they really care.

  4. #24

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jbkuma View Post
    If you route the ground for the battery through your adapter, then use the blade side connector to bridge it, then the only time the hilt will be powered is when something is pluged in.

    Also, I live a subway ride from Shapeways and I have still gone mostly to FDM unless it's for someone else and they really care.
    I'ma going to have to draw up a diagram to work out that... But good to know its possible in such a convenient manner.

    And yeah, I'd avoid shapeways only for the fact that my day job is freelance 3d design that more often than not goes through shapeways. At least there the print errors and variations are predictable, whereas FDM is a complete mixed bag :P
    Last edited by RarestSquirrel; 11-30-2017 at 10:06 PM.

  5. #25

    Default

    Ok. Soldering iron acquired and work begins, finally.
    Got the strips down on some 10mm 3M double sided tape, trimmed the overhang off as well. ...big surprise no one makes 7mm wide tape :P

    Also did a quick wiring diagram. If I've not got anything horribly there... the only question I have left is how one uses the capacitor on the strip. I've got 4 just in case. Little bit confused as to where they go.
    Oh, also unsure as to whether I can cut the strips from either end or just from the top(ie ->) end. Need to trim a fair number off as my blades are only 34" long.




  6. #26

    Default

    And a blank for good measure. Also forgot to note that I'm not using the LED's in the switches. Too much of a pain in the arse.


  7. #27

    Default

    Ok, wired.
    Getting a quick flash on one side of the strips and a boot sound from the speaker but nothing after that. RICE won't connect on at least two of my pc's(windows 10) so I am a tad lost. J did set the override file just by plugging the sd card directly to the number of pixels.
    There's no ignition sound either from pressing the momentary.

    I'm going to remove variables starting with the gx-16 and see what happens.

  8. #28

  9. #29

    Default

    Welcome to team Pixel!

    Was it the GX16 connector? It's easy to mix up your wiring on those and wire it up in the mirror of what you should have done. I've done it more than I'd care to admit..

  10. #30

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jbkuma View Post
    Welcome to team Pixel!

    Was it the GX16 connector? It's easy to mix up your wiring on those and wire it up in the mirror of what you should have done. I've done it more than I'd care to admit..

    Thanks!
    Nope. I literally had the switch wires connected to the LED tabs, rather than the actual switch tabs. Very smart, me.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •