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Thread: NeoPixel build part list

  1. #11

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    Ah. See I thought 'diffuser' was referring to these: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/40...ItemId=6994965

    Herp di derp.
    The foam was always my list. Was planning on experimenting with various clear wraps as well as I've read around the place a few different configurations.
    Clear wrap around the pixels, then stuffed in the foam.
    Clear wrap around the foam with like toilet paper wrapped around the pixels somehow?

    I'll just experiment a little I think since the photon comes with diffusion film to begin with. Pixels - clear wrap - foam - film - blade - will very likely be first up.

  2. #12

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    Toilet paper worked really well in my experiments, but it was too hard to hide the edge. White packing foam wrapped in clear gift wrap works really well, getting things wrapped nearly is though. The tube makes it much easier, although I think the layers of the wrap do a little better. The clear gift wrap is more necessary on the tube, but the side of the tube makes it really easy to wrap and get in the blade.

  3. #13

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    Stupid knows nothing about electrical engineering question time:
    Do I need to be doing anything voltage related between the battery, board and pixels to get it within an acceptable range, or is that pretty much taken care of by the controllers on the strips?
    Specifically outside of the capacitor and the resistor in the PRIZM 5.1 instructions.
    Also is said capacitor going between the + on the battery and the + on the strips? Or elsewhere?

  4. #14

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    Your battery should be capable of delivering at least 10 amps of current

  5. #15

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    The capacitor is wired to the + and - of the strips. I didn't use one on my build and on a strip that is nearly full length (140 pixels x2) I get booting errors on my NBv4 after the battery has been discharged somewhat. I'm going to rebuild the blade with a capacitor and that should solve the booting problem. What I really need is to figure out how to include a 26650 in the build but that would require a new chassis.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by SA22C View Post
    The capacitor is wired to the + and - of the strips. I didn't use one on my build and on a strip that is nearly full length (140 pixels x2) I get booting errors on my NBv4 after the battery has been discharged somewhat. I'm going to rebuild the blade with a capacitor and that should solve the booting problem. What I really need is to figure out how to include a 26650 in the build but that would require a new chassis.
    Ok, thanks. That clears it up.


    And the latest iteration of chassis design. Finally got in most of the electronics(thank the gods for UPS) and realised that my RICE port idea wasn't going to work.
    It'll have to be a slide in-slide out deal if I want to edit via USB.

    Still waiting on the speaker(switched to a 20mm) and the battery holder that I'll likely end up tearing to bits for parts. Also waiting for USPS to get their **** together and deliver the photon, but no big deal. Did get an amber enhanced anyway.

    https://skfb.ly/6uEoB

    NEXT!

  7. #17

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    Once you have your GX16s you can make a programming and charging adapter via your blade socket. For the rice you only need the TX and RX and use the common ground.

    You can see the adapter I made in this photo that shows some development parts and progress from Silvana:

    (maybe I should have updated my build page for this saber since it's been "95% done" for about 6 months now)

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by jbkuma View Post
    Once you have your GX16s you can make a programming and charging adapter via your blade socket. For the rice you only need the TX and RX and use the common ground.

    You can see the adapter I made in this photo that shows some development parts and progress from Silvana:

    (maybe I should have updated my build page for this saber since it's been "95% done" for about 6 months now)
    Mmm! That's definitely on the cards, though I'd like to see if I can use the RICE software live to shoot a bunch of footage fiddling with colours etc.
    Hence the bottom-of-the-chassis-mounted hole for the port.
    Failing that I'll set up said charge/RICE on one of the GX16's.

  9. #19

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    I never took photos of it, but at one point I built a rig that I called a "programming shunt" which was basically a coupler to attach the blade that had ports on it for programming and charging.

    I'm currently getting ready to move or else I'd slap it back together to demonstrate... The beginning of next year should see a ridiculously high number of completed projects from me, mostly because I started a lot of them the beginning of this year before I started working on props and commissions!

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by jbkuma View Post
    I never took photos of it, but at one point I built a rig that I called a "programming shunt" which was basically a coupler to attach the blade that had ports on it for programming and charging.

    I'm currently getting ready to move or else I'd slap it back together to demonstrate... The beginning of next year should see a ridiculously high number of completed projects from me, mostly because I started a lot of them the beginning of this year before I started working on props and commissions!
    Hah, nice. I can imagine how that'd work. And don't worry, I think I've got a pretty clear mental picture. Hilt - programming shunt - blade. Maybe?

    I decided to fiddle around with the enhanced amber blade a little whilst waiting for the battery to arrive and I noticed something. The photoluminescent effect was much more pronounced on the tip than the blade tube itself.
    I currently hypothesize that this is either a result of the dimensions of the tip compared to the thinness of ze blade, or perhaps that it is matte rather than gloss like the blade. Perhaps both. In either case I'm rather tempted to see what sanding the blade up a little might do.


    Last edited by RarestSquirrel; 11-21-2017 at 05:11 PM.

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