Painting details on a saber

[Skywalker]

Hello!

I am new to saber building and I had a question regarding painting details on my Graflex 2.0 saber. I am wanting to build a ROTS inspired Graflex and will be painting the lever on the clamp gold. I bought some Testors enamel metallic gold paint but wasn't sure what else I would need. I have read about painting aluminum and I know I will need to either use sandpaper to scuff it up and/or primer and also a top coat. Because it is a small area on the Graflex I did not want to use a spray can. I am not sure where or how to start. Any advice is much appreciated!

[Skywalker]

Hello!

I am new to saber building and I had a question regarding painting details on my Graflex 2.0 saber. I am wanting to build a ROTS inspired Graflex and will be painting the lever on the clamp gold. I bought some Testors enamel metallic gold paint but wasn't sure what else I would need. I have read about painting aluminum and I know I will need to either use sandpaper to scuff it up and/or primer and also a top coat. Because it is a small area on the Graflex I did not want to use a spray can. I am not sure where or how to start. Any advice is much appreciated!

Any thoughts?

[figgie]

well, dealing with painting on other items than sabers that happen to be metal.

I would ask "what are you looking for from the gold"?

to be mirror like? anodized (looks transparent but not as reflective)? or matte?
Also if you use a adhesion promoter, that would be better than mechanical (ie scuffing/sanding) abrasion.

scuffing/sanding will get amplified by any metallic color (especially if the flakes are smaller).
I always use airbrush to do most painting from the full paint to very fine details (I have 5 airbrushes for airbrush work). This will give you the smoothest application on all parts.

[Skywalker]

Thank you for your reply! I would say I would want it to look more mirror like or anodized (just want it kind of shiny).

[Skywalker]

How would I go about that?

[Darkmatter73]

Hi Skywalker.
First, you need to remove the part to be painted if at all possible. If it's just a clamp lever, should be no problem. Unless you are good at masking and have the right materials, it can leak or soak through.
If you can isolate the clamp, mask off the threaded part and tape it to something, I attach parts to wooden paint stir sticks. That way after painting, you can shove it into a bookcase or something to dry.

Prep the part: if you don't have access to acetone to clean the part ( best ) just use some alcohol, but don't touch it again.
In your case I would not sand raw aluminum, I would use a primer or adhesion promoter, preferably clear. You didn't specify if your paint was brush on or spray, only that you didn't want to spray.
I would not use a brush on paint myself, can't stand brush strokes in the finish. Spraying it on will give you far more consistent and even results.

Either way you do it, let it dry overnight. Don't bake the part, it will not help the finish. You can then use a nice gloss clear over that and get the nice shiny part you were looking for.
Keep in mind that rattle can paints, in my experience, will become tacky when heated up ( playing with the saber ). If you don't have access to better paints, make sure your clear goes on in nice thin coats, letting dry a bit in between.

Let it set up good before you handle it too much. Minimum overnight. I hope this helps at least a bit. I've been wanting to do a video series on metal finishing in general, but lack a video camera =)
I'll help you however I can, and happy painting.

-Darkmatter73

[Skywalker]

Hi Skywalker.
First, you need to remove the part to be painted if at all possible. If it's just a clamp lever, should be no problem. Unless you are good at masking and have the right materials, it can leak or soak through.
If you can isolate the clamp, mask off the threaded part and tape it to something, I attach parts to wooden paint stir sticks. That way after painting, you can shove it into a bookcase or something to dry.

Prep the part: if you don't have access to acetone to clean the part ( best ) just use some alcohol, but don't touch it again.
In your case I would not sand raw aluminum, I would use a primer or adhesion promoter, preferably clear. You didn't specify if your paint was brush on or spray, only that you didn't want to spray.
I would not use a brush on paint myself, can't stand brush strokes in the finish. Spraying it on will give you far more consistent and even results.

Either way you do it, let it dry overnight. Don't bake the part, it will not help the finish. You can then use a nice gloss clear over that and get the nice shiny part you were looking for.
Keep in mind that rattle can paints, in my experience, will become tacky when heated up ( playing with the saber ). If you don't have access to better paints, make sure your clear goes on in nice thin coats, letting dry a bit in between.

Let it set up good before you handle it too much. Minimum overnight. I hope this helps at least a bit. I've been wanting to do a video series on metal finishing in general, but lack a video camera =)
I'll help you however I can, and happy painting.

-Darkmatter73

Thank you for your reply and all the helpful information! I know I can take the piece off so that is helpful. The paint stir stick idea will definitely be useful! I was planning on hand painting it since it is a small piece but I may use a can of spray paint instead if that is better. I don't want to invest in a airbrush since I probably won't use it again.

Is there a good primer or adhesion promoter that you (or someone) would recommend? Top coat brand/type?

Thanks again!

[Skywalker]

Is there a good primer or adhesion promoter that someone would recommend? Top coat brand/type (like this https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Spray...p/B009FF6DN4)? I just want it to last and for it not to get tacky since the paint will be in a spot where my hands will be.

[Darkmatter73]

This is what I use, bought mine at NAPA auto parts.
https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-C...70_&dpSrc=srch

[Skywalker]

This is what I use, bought mine at NAPA auto parts.
https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-C...70_&dpSrc=srch

Thank you so much! It looks like it is available nearby at a decent price so I will be trying it out soon. Do you know if this product https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Spray...+spray+lacquer is a good to use for the clear top coat in a spot that may get warm from my hands? Also, after the adhesion promotor, can I use basically any gold spray paint and then apply the clear coat?

Sorry for all the questions. You (and this forum) have been really helpful in getting me started with my first saber project and I have greatly appreciated it!