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Thread: Scraptech Build

  1. #31

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    Trying some configurations while fitting the crystal chamber. I found a VERY smoky quartz that lights up in a neat way. Plan will be to light it with a blade matching RGB LED up top and with a RGB LED on bottom configured to the accent pads of the CF9, so that I can get a pulse when in idle.








  2. #32

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    Oh this is lookin' nice DN. I like those bits securing the crystal. 3D printed? and the stator coil, those things were made for crystal chambers.

  3. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by Greenie View Post
    Oh this is lookin' nice DN. I like those bits securing the crystal. 3D printed? and the stator coil, those things were made for crystal chambers.
    The ones in the pic with the two are 3D printed, but I'm only using the one on the right for this build. Also, it fits perfectly in the hole in a MHS chassis disc. The bottom of the crystal is held by a faucet connector thing. I drilled and tapped the chassis disc for it.

    I REALLY want to do a full metal reveal for this, but I'm having trouble getting around how to do a nice metal chassis shell (to work with the MHS stuff) that I can do with no fancy tools (lathe, mill, etc...).

  4. #34

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    Awesome work so far!

    Everyone loves a full metal reveal. You could try using brass shim stock or some other thin sheet metal and make a metal veneer shell. Or you could try using some guitar shielding tape and put it on the outside of a 3d printed chassis.

    Or you could just go medieval on some telescoping tubes with a dremel and some hand files.

    Plastic chassis have some benefits (flexibility, shock absorbtion , non-conductive.)

    In some ways having an amazing full reveal chassis is akin to having the backside of the Mona Lisa painting be another great work of art in itself. It's so ridicululous and amazing at the same time.

  5. #35

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    Since I am not using a full set of bunny ears, I thought I would try a blade plug with a bit more going one. Success I'd say.










  6. #36

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    Oh my gosh, I stumbled across the same picture of the Scrapflex and instantly knew that is what I wanted to build for my first saber, and I immediately shelved my other designs. This thread is extremely inspirational and helpful, confirming many of the things I wanted to do are possible without mills and lathes, and answers many of the questions I had. GREAT WORK! Please keep posting updates!

  7. #37

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    Nice build. Been watching a lot of prop builders on YT and this is as good or better than most.
    inspiring work

  8. #38

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    Chassis progress...

    So, my lack of tooling required me to send off the hilt to another smith to sort out the reveal chassis. Patrick Cargill did an excellent job of working with me on a solution.











    I also had him etch the chassis. I will do the finish work on sanding it when I get the hilt back.




  9. #39

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    I Love it. It's like you've been reading my mind. Another detail you could add is to drill (or indent) a small hole where those circuits terminate on the "pads." If you wired up another LED inside the innermost chassis, you might get some shine-through up through such holes for more dramatic effect.

    I am thinking about the bottom half of my hilt being this exposed faux circuitry looking piece, as if the owner lost the bottom half shroud of their saber and is making do without, or something like that, perhaps with a temporary piece of junk as a shroud over the circuits, but leaving some of them exposed to view. The etching on your piece is exactly the type of etching I've been researching that I want to perform on the outside of the MHS hilt, with a sanded sink tube shroud layered over the top. Imagine if you were holding your inner sleeve as pictured in your last screenshot in your hand as the bottom half of your saber, without the leather wrap at all. Kinda what I'm going for.
    Last edited by SFXER001; 03-08-2018 at 09:43 AM.

  10. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Nurse View Post
    The ones in the pic with the two are 3D printed, but I'm only using the one on the right for this build. Also, it fits perfectly in the hole in a MHS chassis disc. The bottom of the crystal is held by a faucet connector thing. I drilled and tapped the chassis disc for it.
    Would you mind sharing the drill and tap size for the faucet part? I have the same ones that I am thinking of using, and best guess is they are 1/2 - 20. Tested it at a Lowe’s. Having trouble finding a 1/2 20 tap anywhere.

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