Favorite Clear Coat?

[GothamsKnight]

So I recently finished weathering a lightsaber using an automotive black self etching primer, and the result was exactly what I wanted. I then clear coated it to protect the weathering using a basic Krylon satin clear coat. I can't say that I'm particular happy with the clear coating though, it doesn't look near as good as the base aluminum (the clear coat has a very subtle, almost glittery look to it). Maybe I'll try again with a matte clear coat.

I'm a little inexperienced when it comes to painting metal, most my costume and prop projects have been with EVA foam, which I found didn't require the protection of a clear coat.

What clear coat do you guys find works best for retaining the original look of the aluminum, while still being durable (after baking of course)?

[Avidgrant]

I'll look when I get home..... I've used the same one on multiple sabers and it seems to look different on each. I think it may have more to do with what it's covering then anything else. Also.... did you cook it?

[GothamsKnight]

Sorry for the late reply, was out of town on business. Yes, I cooked the clear coat for an hour at 250 degrees.

[figgie]

Well the clear coat depending to transparency will tend to amplify any metallic colors underneath. Especially the dark ones.

So I am going to guess that you are looking more for the anodized look (whether colored or the natural shiny aluminum and not aluminum oxide?).

usually if going for the natural aluminum you will need to spray a adhesion promoter before throwing the clear. Otherwise the clear will not stick.

[Darkmatter73]

Hi there, chiming in with my 2 credits.
Without going into my resume, painting is what I do. That being said, I dislike Krylon clear very much. It never seems to fully cure, and get tacky when warmed up IE; playing with your saber.
You are free to experiment, but I use Duplicolor adhesion promoter ( it's clear ) and Testor's Dullcote matte clear alot.
No rattle can solution is perfect, but this combo works for me anyway.

Also I've covered this in other threads, but baking these kinds of paints does nothing. It will not dry any harder, it will only flash the solvents and propellents out faster. Meaning you can handle it sooner, but you can't speed up curing.

[GothamsKnight]

Thanks for the input guys, I'm going to pick up a can of adhesion promoter and Testor's and give that a shot then. Good to know about the baking, I didn't realize it didn't actually add durability.

[figgie]

Thanks for the input guys, I'm going to pick up a can of adhesion promoter and Testor's and give that a shot then. Good to know about the baking, I didn't realize it didn't actually add durability.

durability is the function of the clear coat itself.

ie,

a rattle can clear will NOT be as hard as a clear coat + catalyzer (that is the clear coat on most cars that you can polish).
then you have Enamel vs Acrylic vs Urethane.

[GothamsKnight]

Enamel is usually harder than Acrylic and Urethane right?

[figgie]

well, it depends.

it is harder but that means less flexible. It can be polished to a mirror shine but needs to be done with care.

Urethane on the other hand is not as "hard" but is way more flexible and can take polishing better.

Acrylic clear are now usually called acrylic enamel.