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Thread: Slide Switch Kill Key

  1. #1
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    Default Slide Switch Kill Key

    Hi everyone,

    I’m looking to install a slide switch as a kill key instead of a plug so I don’t have to worry about misplacing them. If anyone who has accomplished it is willing to help and show me how, I would be very grateful!

    Much appreciated!

  2. #2

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    Ya would just wire the switch inline on the (-) wire leading to the sound card. However, you will need to somehow manually charge the battery everytime it runs down, or just remove the battery after you use it.
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  3. #3

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    You can also cut a notch in the kill key and “turn” it on and off....... just some food for thought.

  4. #4

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    if you put the switch in line after the recharge port you won't need a kill key but you can still charge 'in hilt'.

  5. #5

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    Raktus. My first saber, I built a slide switch (aka "Latching Switch") into it to shut down the board. You can either interrupt the positive or negative circuit, it does not matter. A switch is used to complete or interrupt a circuit. Latching switches interrupt/complete a circuit as they are latched/unlatched.

    So, you want to use your + circuit to interrupt? Battery positive line goes to one pole of your switch, and then the other pole has the positive line coming out of it, going to your board. Test the switch with a volt meter to find out which way is on, so that you install it in an orientation that makes sense to you. When the switch is on, you will have continuity between the switch poles (where the wires solder on).

    I think most of these guys are trying to convince you to put a recharge port in for a BIG reason. My first sabers didn't have recharge ports, and only had replaceable batteries where you cram your battery/chassis into the saber. Then pull that mess out to change batteries. Pulling your chassis in and out every time your battery goes bad is stressful on these delicate wires and things inside of a saber, and the constant shuttling in and out can cause issues. A recharge port allows you to charge the battery without opening the saber and sliding out a chassis (or sliding out a chassis just far enough o get to recharge port). There are ways you can wire a recharge port, and still have replaceable batteries. My Kylo sabers are both like that, because I need to be able to quickly change out batteries at events to keep my saber going.

    Good luck!

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  6. #6
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    Thanks everyone! Is there something special needed for the switch? I saw somewhere about some voltage or amp rating on a switch...

  7. #7

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    The majority of switches usable for our purpose will handle the kinda values we work with. It's probably harder to find one that isn't suitable.

  8. #8
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    Would any of these be acceptable?

    https://www.digikey.com/products/en/...e-switches/213

    Hope I’m allowed to post that. Apologies if not.

  9. #9

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    You are looking for a SPST switch that can handle enough DC current for your solution. 1A if you are going for 1 die LED, or 2-3A for a multi-die setup.

    You'll also want to look at the physical size of the switch, since you will be putting it inside your hilt.

  10. #10

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    Raktis, did you end up installing your on/off switch?

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