Effective Internal Length

[PhoenixFirewall]

Greetings all!

I haven't seen this asked specifically anywhere so I figured I'd ask here. My question is for those of you who stuff as much into your sabers as possible, how much internal space do you tend to need, lenghtwise? I'm talking boards, battery packs, speakers, switch placement, all of it.

My intention is to design a saber that fits the narrative I want to express, and don't want to design one too short, or with impossible-to-work-around parts.


Thanks!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Welcome to the Forums.

It all depends on how much you want to stick in there, and your skill level.

[darth_chasm]

Welcome aboard!

To add to FJKs comment, battery plays a big part. Some boards require smaller (shorter in length) than other boards.

[PhoenixFirewall]

Thanks for the welcome guys.

What I want and what I can cram-fu are probably 2 different things. I'm dead set on a CFv8. Everything else will be done revolving around that and what I wan't to make my saber look like (the "story" that goes with it).

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Thanks for the welcome guys.

What I want and what I can cram-fu are probably 2 different things. I'm dead set on a CFv8. Everything else will be done revolving around that and what I wan't to make my saber look like (the "story" that goes with it).

Why don’t you try to come up with a design and I’ll tell you how feasible it will be for you.

[PhoenixFirewall]

Fair enough. These are two I came up with on the fly.

Saber1.jpg
Saber2.jpg

[darth_chasm]

The one with the grenade grip has two differing ID's and could present a lot of obstacles.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Right now, the top one would be a bit easier for you to work with, depending on what you try to cram in there.

[Ridire Fíréan]

Hey @PhoenixFirewall ! You could do a lot with both of those hilt designs. If you want to go with a RGB Tri-CREE or some sort of RGBW Quad-CREE where you'll want to incorporate a Color Xtender you will need to have extra length-space available for it. You'll also want 7.4V to power the Color Xtender so 2-14500's is the smallest, shortest option there. It can be done in both variations of your hilts, but if you want to include a Crystal Chamber, you'll have more room to do so in the upper, non-grenade-sectioned one.

The way I'm tackling my first MHS build is by drawing blueprints of each part and then making separate drawings of the internal spaces to allow me to Cram-Fu everything I can into my available space. Unfortunately my Chassis design has to be redrawn to accomodate my Color Xtender now that I've chosen to use a RGB Tri-CREE.

The good news is that I've completed my wiring diagram! Now I just need to figure out how to post images here in this forum.

[Denz]

For MHS internal diameter builds 3.5" to 5" is typically all I use. Of course you may need more if you are using an longer battery.

-Denzil