Customizing a Prebuilt Saber

[LazySith]

I recent bought an ultrasaber and i am looking to upgrade it somewhat. I was hoping to use the corbin blade but was lost on a couple of things. Firstly, which "driver" do i use with this blade in order to achieve the extension/retraction effect. Secondly can i do this using the sound board i already have in there. Finally, if anyone has experience changing out switches on ultrasabers some advice on that would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.

[lovetadraw]

I think it refers to how Plecter boards have a ramped up ignition. US sabers don't do that unless you program it with the Diamond board. As for the switches I have no clue.

[rlobrecht]

US aren't very popular around here. You might get better answers over at fx-sabers.

[Imperator.Caelorum]

I just rebuilt a US saber two days ago. If you want additional details, feel free to ask, but the short answer is that the best thing you can do is pull out ALL the internals and replace them with parts from TCSS. If you don't, the US internals will break one by one, starting with the battery housing.
I know the US topic is not favored, but I speak only to save those of us unfortunate fellows who didn't discover MHS first when we began our saber journeys. I can help any such poor souls on how to completely remake a US into an MHS saber with nothing left of the original but the hilt.
That being said, if any of the masters deem the topic unfit for this forum, I will bow to their leadership.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I’m going to let this stand (for now). Caelorum is correct that you will have to essentially gut your Saber and replace everything inside. It is possible to do though, which is mostly what your concern is.

[robwin]

Caelorum i got a question. Is it possible to install the MWS LED module in a US blade holder (with heatsink)? What specific US Hilt did you use?
I wonder if the blade holder is compatible with mhs/mws.
Thanks in advance.

[lovetadraw]

To use an MHS heatsink in an US blade holder, you'll have to bore out the bottom of it a little. I'd recommend just sticking to they're heatsink unless you want to swap the emitter for a true mhs one. The short .75 extension can also remedy this. As for chassis and stuff, most MHS things will fit. Though some models with chokes will leave you with way less room. If any of mine go up, I plan on replacing it with a v6 chassis. Keep in mind, just as with the blade holders, the pommels are different. The speaker cannot go into the pommel, hence the V6 being an optimal chassis.

I've had 3 sound US sabers that have held up fine considering how hard I duel with them at times. That having been said, I wish I hadn't gotten all the upgrades that I did as it'll hurt more should I ever upgrade to a plecter board.

[Darth Nurse]

You need to decide how in love you are with the look of the US you have. If you are super in love with it, then gut it and convert, if you are not... save yourself a ton of headache. Sell it and build a ground up MHS saber that you truly love.

[Imperator.Caelorum]

I would not try the MWS LED module. They all have the lips for locking in place to a MHS blade holder. You have to use one of the 1 inch heat sink modules in the non MHS section of TCSS. Do not use the US heat sink module if you are planning on using a tri LED. A lot of your light will not make it to the blade. I tested it out with mine, and it looks the same as a single LED. I think because the Tri-Cree has its LEDs closer to the outer edge, the US heat sink module partially blocks it.
My specific hilts were an apprentice V4 and a dark sentinel V4. Be careful with installing the battery, board, and speaker. the chokes on the US interior create a colossal waste of usable space. Make your cram fu strong.