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Thread: Quick questions about my dream saber / Sanity check

  1. #1

    Question Quick questions about my dream saber / Sanity check

    Apologies if this is the wrong sub-forum. I need a sanity check on my idea and I need help with a possible issue.

    Basic design considerations:

    I'm trying to build a saber evocative of a katana. Not something like Ahsoka because I need it to actually hit with full force and it's a bit too curved for the type of saber we use at our school.

    So, I went with the regular cylinder option and messed around a bit with the builder until I got something symmetric, that looked wrapped, with the same size as the hilt I'm used to... and this is what I came to:



    It's mostly extensions, and two of them aren't even in the builder (fudged them up a bit with other parts and layered them for the look, I'll have to order those 0.8 extensions), and I know that I'll have a smaller ID to work with.

    The switch will be inside one of the holes in the middle extension, A.K.A. crystal chamber so I won't bother messing around with holes elsewhere.

    With all of this in mind...

    Is it feasible to have a battery in the lower section and a soundboard (Pico Crumble or Nano Biscotte) in the upper section?

    The way I intend to set this up is having the crystal chamber/switch section be the holder for everything. Unscrew the top and bottom parts and a purpose made assembly holds the battery and soundboard on opposite ends. Nothing electronic even touches the rest of the hilt, recharging is done by unscrewing the bottom part.

    Foreseen issues:

    The only real issue I foresee is about the speaker. Will there be enough room between the extension and pommel to hold a speaker and if not how can I fix this without adding more length to the saber (it's perfect in that regard)?

    I'm ready to have to use a quick connect or a long cable to have the speaker in the bottom and an accessible battery, I'd rather not but I prefer to have a comfortable hilt with the correct measurements (although the shape and profile are off but it's a concession I'm willing to make for a lightsaber).

    TIA and MTFBWY!
    Last edited by Luís; 10-03-2017 at 08:47 AM. Reason: Adding a picture.
    “Do. Or do not. There is no try.” – Yoda

  2. #2

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    The speaker should be fine. You can put it in the upper section and point it down towards the cc so the sound comes out there.
    Naturally, you will have to run wires by your cc, but that won't be an issue.

    Not sure how you planned to attach the LED, but typically they are held in by the emitter. If you mount this to the upper chassis and then the upper chassis to the cc, you could completely detach both the upper and lower sections with no issues.

    Check out Greenie's AMAZING saber for some inspiration.
    Last edited by Rampant; 10-03-2017 at 09:16 AM.

  3. #3

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    Sounds like a good plan. You also need to think about how you are going to hold your blade if the left section isn't a blade holder.

    Crystal chassis, while very cool looking, aren't necessarily sturdy enough for hard dueling.

  4. #4

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    @Rampant

    I'm not sure it has enough room and if it does I'd much rather put it at the bottom so I could use the hilt's vents for projection. Being next to the CC would work but I need to make it sturdy and still be able to pass cables. Do you reckon it'd work like the traditional way or should I add some venting to the acrylic windows I'm having made and have sound from the CC?

    As for the LED, right now I'm thinking about getting some sort of thin sheet metal to hold the LED casing or maybe even welding/securing it to the heatsink so it'd pull out in one nice piece.

    That Greenie saber is just amazing. I'm looking for something just a bit different interms of aesthetics but in terms of functionality that's what I'm shooting for.

    @rlobrecht

    I'm using the right section as a blade holder, blade holder style 2.

    As for the CC I have a contact that can cut me custom acrylic (non structural, just want the mirrored stuff to reflex extra light) and steel rings for added sturdiness and I'm thinking using the rods that hold it together to the battery and soundboard will give me some extra strength. Liberal usage of epoxy should mean it'll be pretty much the solidest piece out of the whole setup.
    “Do. Or do not. There is no try.” – Yoda

  5. #5

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    Because it's not mentioned anywhere here, I just want to check... you're aware that the ribbed sections have a smaller internal diameter, yes?

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Luís View Post
    @Rampant

    I'm not sure it has enough room and if it does I'd much rather put it at the bottom so I could use the hilt's vents for projection. Being next to the CC would work but I need to make it sturdy and still be able to pass cables. Do you reckon it'd work like the traditional way or should I add some venting to the acrylic windows I'm having made and have sound from the CC?
    I am not sure how you are planning to do the chassis, but you could use the chassis discs or even speaker holders on either side of the center cc. You could thread rods into each of them and have 2 extra spacers/channels for the wires. It's already threaded for the rods and easy to add the spacers to.

    I did something similar here where the speaker holder is the base of the cc and the whole thing slides in upper extensions and a blade holder. I just plan on keeping everything above the double-male attached:



    You will have more room up top for the speaker as the card is much shorter than the battery. But, the only way you will truly know is get the parts and try it out.
    Last edited by Rampant; 10-03-2017 at 02:29 PM.

  7. #7

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    @Jenny: Yup, 1.15in, IIRC. I know I won't be able to use the mounting discs so I'll have to make my own. The speaker will just clear it from my calculations and I'm thinking of using thin metal sheets

    @Rampant: Given the fact that I'm using only extensions discs are probably not an option so I'll have to fashion my own. As for the rest I'm thinking of going with threaded rods and sheet metal to hold the speaker (wherever it may end up and if possible) and the LED module.

    On the one hand I'd prefer it to be on the bottom in order to have a clearer sound although playing with an empty-ish chamber in the top might make it resonate more.

    Guess it's ordering time if no one sees any issues.
    “Do. Or do not. There is no try.” – Yoda

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