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Thread: MHS Chassis and LED Module

  1. #11

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    Wow that was was quick. I just went back to edit! I take it you get where I'm coming from?

  2. #12
    Sith Warrior darth_chasm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greenie View Post
    Wow that was was quick. I just went back to edit! I take it you get where I'm coming from?
    Oh yeah. Great Idea!
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  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Greenie View Post
    Drill and tap a centre hole in the heatsink then attach chassis disc 2 using a hex head type screw, it will be useful for holding a crystal in place. Then build a crystal chamber between that and another chassis disc using threaded rod, a few greeblies and whatever your imagination comes up with . You will have to figure out wiring routes to the LED based on how you build it.

    Greenie
    Ha! Genius. I learned something today. Tom

    "Let the past die."

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    Most awesome! Thanks so much Greenie, et al! I'll keep you all posted on my progress! Now on to the electronics planning. Gotta research how set up an NB4 with FoC, crystal LED, and maybe a rumble motor if possible.

    Much appreciated. You all are excellent

  5. #15

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    Easy to set up FOC on NBIV. Wire your white (or whatever color FOC you want) diode to the L2 pad. If you want matching crystal chamber that mirrors the saber blade, you can do that too. I have a way.

    NBIV Crystal Chamber FOC:

    Tom

    "Let the past die."

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Tilmon View Post
    Easy to set up FOC on NBIV. Wire your white (or whatever color FOC you want) diode to the L2 pad. If you want matching crystal chamber that mirrors the saber blade, you can do that too. I have a way.

    NBIV Crystal Chamber FOC:

    Tom
    Yes yes! I would very much like that. Especially the way you have it so that the chamber remains lit when the saber is off, but then goes out in deep sleep mode!

    Thanks!

  7. #17
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    I plan on having a saber with an NB4, 2W bass speaker, illuminated AV switch, rgb main LED with FoC, and rgb crystal LED. I'm not sure, but I believe I need a power extender for this, and can I use a buckpuck for this, or do I need multiple resistors? Is a single 18650 enough for this? Has anyone put all this in a secure chassis?

  8. #18

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    You do need the color extender to do this with the NBIV. Or you could use a prism. If you get a common anode accent RGB LED, you can wire it on the same pads as your main LED for matching crystal chamber.


    Tom

    "Let the past die."

  9. #19
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    Thanks Tom!

    I really appreciate the help! I'll keep this updated as I make progress and share my findings.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Tilmon View Post
    You do need the color extender to do this with the NBIV. Or you could use a prism. If you get a common anode accent RGB LED, you can wire it on the same pads as your main LED for matching crystal chamber.


    Tom
    Of course you would need resistors on all the negative legs of the common anode RGB LED. If you wired your board L1 Red, L2 Green, L3 Blue the negative legs of your common anode would go to the same pads. So, when you are testing the RGB LED to figure out the legs, use the heavy resistor (for the red LED) on your power supply to test. You can build a basic power supply out of a simple battery pack for testing LED's. I just use a cheap 18650 pack I soldered lead wires/alligator clamp to. It is immensely helpful to figure things out and test my connections. I test at every step.

    Typically, on a accent LED like that, the longest leg will be your common anode. The lone leg outside of the common anode is your red return, the middle leg is the green return, and the other outside leg is the blue...typically.

    Tom

    "Let the past die."

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