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Thread: MHS Chassis and LED Module

  1. #1
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    Default MHS Chassis and LED Module

    Hello everyone!

    First time on here and definite noob. I'm hoping to build a chassis with the LED module attached to a crystal chamber made from MHS parts (I know, it's ambitious... but I figure go big and learn hard). The problem is, I can't for the life of me, find some description of how people have done it. Sorry if this a duplicate, but any help would be much appreciated!!
    Thanks!

  2. #2

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    Well, I'm not too sure how to tell you to go about that. I have built an MHS saber with a custom chassis and a crystal chamber. Don't know how to tell you to attach the module to the crystal chamber, or why you would want to do that, unless you want a totally connected internal thing.

    Good luck, I'll be watching this. My MHS saber has a pull out chassis supporting the 18650, board, recharge port. It has clear acrylic chassis disks in the middle and on RC Port. I used a metal disk at the front end of the chassis. Mine slides in and out; however, the next MHS saber I make will have a fixed chassis where the saber bottom will screw on over a fixed chassis that is fixed into the upper. That is the way to go to keep things from breaking down. So, I understand you plan, but most MHS LED modules fix into the emiiters.

    Tom

    "Let the past die."

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the reply, Tom! When I said I wanted the LED attached to the crystal chamber, I really meant just that the crystal chamber would be in the part of the chassis next to the LED. I guess it's easier to say that I just want a full chassis (attach the LED to the chassis rather than have the LED held in place by only the blade holder/choke). Think kind of like the KAM chassis by shtokcustomworx of some of the work done by Darth Ryo.

    I'd love to see your work if you don't mind?

    Thanks!

  4. #4

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    Hey Raktus,

    Get yourself a 1" non-MHS module. It wont have the lip that locks the module between the body and emitter. Then you just have to find a creative way to attach it you your chassis. You may have to get something custom machined or printed to do so.


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  5. #5

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    Soldering: this is NBIV in a Graflex with Darth Ryo Knight



    Chassis inside Graflex 2.0:


    First iteration of my Mako MHS RGB Chassis from initial install:



    First attempt at scratch built crystal chamber, wanted it to look nasty and rough, I succeeded:



    In the windowed MHS extension:



    Mako lit up with chassis hanging outside, pommel to right:



    Second iteration of Mako Chassis:



    Third, and most recent evolution of my Mako chassis, completed last week! My RC port used to be on the outside of the hilt. I hated to move it internal, because of NEC no deep sleep, but had to. Where it was located before was lending to broken wires on cram fu, because the cram fu smashed into it. I will never build another saber with cram fu, they will have fixed chassis, like you are planning. I think you'd be fine to fix crystal chamber, battery, board, speaker, RC Port, Rice, etc. into a solid chassis, and just leave the LED module to be captured in emitter above it. That still gives you a solid state Ryo type chassis system to avoid cram fu. Cram fu not good when your an accent LED nut like me. I like blinkies.



    My MPP Ryo (which has 11 accent LEDs including the 2 RGB lighting the 2 crystals for blade match)





    Video of MPP Demo: https://youtu.be/kywES12YB0Q


    My Hasbro Kylo BS redo, solid state aluminum pipe chassis system for 26650 battery, got its first troop today and passed the test! This chassis is built for function, not form. Its ugly, but it serves its purpose, which is staying alive for a whole troop!



    Video of it in action:

    Basically, I'm a saber nut now. My discovery of this hobby is recent, and I'm in my infancy as an installer/designer. But, I've made a bunch of sabers, rewired a bunch, and am currently building 3 Graflexes for venture!

    Tom
    Last edited by Tom Tilmon; 09-30-2017 at 04:15 PM.

    "Let the past die."

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by darth_chasm View Post
    Hey Raktus,

    Get yourself a 1" non-MHS module. It wont have the lip that locks the module between the body and emitter. Then you just have to find a creative way to attach it you your chassis. You may have to get something custom machined or printed to do so.


    Thanks Darth Chasm!

    Thanks for the help. Very cool chassis. How did you attach the LED to it? Or is it just housed in the encasing you have? Do you know if the non-MHS LED module can be screwed into with any of the metal chassis parts?

    Thanks!

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    Woah. Very cool stuff Tom. I was always curious if you could use a graflex-style chassis in a non-graflex MHS hilt somehow to get that "full core" (ala the infamous g-core)

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Raktus View Post
    Thanks Darth Chasm!

    Thanks for the help. Very cool chassis. How did you attach the LED to it? Or is it just housed in the encasing you have? Do you know if the non-MHS LED module can be screwed into with any of the metal chassis parts?

    Thanks!
    I designed the holder so the led module would just pressure fit into it.

    No, there is nothing I am aware of that you can screw into the module other than the heatsink it comes with. That's why I was saying you'll need to make some type of adapter.
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  9. #9

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    Drill and tap a centre hole in the heatsink then attach chassis disc 2 using a hex head type screw, it will be useful for holding a crystal in place. Then build a crystal chamber between that and another chassis disc using threaded rod, a few greeblies and whatever your imagination comes up with . You will have to figure out wiring routes to the LED based on how you build it.

    Greenie
    Last edited by Greenie; 10-01-2017 at 07:34 AM.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Greenie View Post
    Drill and tap a centre hole in the heatsink then attach chassis disc 2 using a hex head type screw, it will be useful for holding a crystal in place. Then build a crystal chamber between that and another chassis disc using threaded rod, a few greeblies and whatever your imagination comes up with .

    Greenie
    I wish we had a like button I could spam
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