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Thread: Sound issue

  1. #11

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    It could be the speaker as well. Once you get it rewired try your first test with a 28mm speaker if you have one. Otherwise my second bet would be to get ahold of Chewbacca (MH) and see if he can look it over.

  2. #12

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    I have taken it apart about three times. I just noticed that the charger may not be working. Tim has been helping me figure this out. He is a patient man.

  3. #13

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    I have a bad charger right now too. Those things are cheap. Did you take a volt reading on your charged battery? If you didn't get 4.1 or so, with the old volt meter...bada bing. I've learned about these sabers that the solutions are often simple (so long as your soldering/wiring is neat/orderly). When a saber has a glitch, its either: low battery, bad SD card files, etc. I hope it is just as simple as the charger wasn't filling your battery with fun filled electrons poised to unleash the light and sound to strike down your enemies! That will be awesome. Fingers crossed for you.

    Tom

    "Let the past die."

  4. #14

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    Unfortunately my volt meter is limited. It is mainly for small batteries. It was super cheap. I need a better one. However, I can set it on everything and get nothing. I get resistance only. No current. That may just be one issue. This worked before for a few days. I may just buy a prewired NBv4 to see if that is the issue. My wife said I should do it if that keeps me from obsessing over this issue.

  5. #15

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    Volt meter<wired NBIV. Volt meter will serve you well in your future obsessing! Ha.

    "Let the past die."

  6. #16

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    This is how I have it hooked up at this time. Anyone see anything off?

    Nano Biscotte v4 install with Tri-Cree and recharge port build
    Parts:
    1. NBv4
    2. Tri-Cree (deep red, deep red and blue for FOC)
    3. Recharge port / Kill switch by Switch Craft 2.1 mm
    4. Panasonic Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 10A 3200mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable* Battery
    5. 2W 28mm Bass Speaker
    6. 2ohm 1w resistor x2
    7. .875" OD Heatsink module with center hole
    8. Star thermal tape pad - Tri LED
    9. MPP 2.0 Chassis - Black
    10. 3.7V Li-ion smart charger with 2.1mm plug
    11. MPP 2.0 Saber hilt

    Tri Cree
    Both positive main LED (Deep Red) have a red wires
    Both negative main LED (Deep Red) have white wires
    Positive FOC (Blue) has a blue wire
    Negative FOC (Blue) has a black wire

    Each wire from the deep red main go to their own 2 ohm/1w resistor. These are put together opposite end of LED into one wire.
    The positive FOC blue wire joins the red wire above after the resistors.
    The Negative main (white wires) are joined together and will go to the NBv4 on L1.
    The negative FOC (black wire) will go to the NBv4 on L2.
    At this point the Joined red and blue wires are waiting for the positive from the battery and the recharge port. Both will be red.

    Recharge Port/battery
    The SC labeled prong will have a white wire attached to it. This wire will go to the NBv4 negative position. Just under the positive. This wire will join one of the activation switch wires.
    The Pin will be red and will join the positive from the battery and the red wires from the LED mains (this includes the blue wire. these are all positive wires). These joined wires will go to the positive position on the NBv4.
    The Spring will receive the negative black wire from the battery. This goes no where.

    NBv4
    At this point, if you are holding the NBv4 with the SD card facing the table and the connections are to your right, the layout should be as follows:
    +: Positive from all red wires (includes blue from positive FOC).
    -: White wire from SC on recharge port along with on wire from activation switch
    L1: White wires (negative) from main LED
    L2: Black wire (negative) from FOC LED
    Act: This is where the second wire from the activation switch goes
    Speaker1: Either speaker wire
    Speaker 2: Either speaker wire.
    Last edited by Uncle67; 10-06-2017 at 06:39 PM.

  7. #17

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    My friend has the same charger. He said that his LED light comes on when he plugs it in the wall. Mine does nothing. My cheap $5 voltmeter shows no current. I am going to take my electronics to him and plug it into his charger and see what happens.

    I have learned much on my first build. I appreciate everyone helping this old man.

  8. #18

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    Remember, its always the simplest of things that go wrong, if all your other stuff was neat and tidy. If you're confident in your soldering, and the saber was working fine initially, the problem is somewhere else. In this instance, it seems the problem is the charger. You have a dead battery and your charger never charged it. Now, this could also mean something is screwy with your RC Port, where your charger can't get charge to battery. For instance, if you reversed your always connected wire to the board, and put the cutoff return wire to the battery, when you plug your charger in, it never senses a battery to charge or to do anything. Double check that your cutoff leg from rc port is going to board, the the direct return is going to the battery! The post on RC port with inscription is the cutoff return. That post goes to board. The other return post goes direct to battery. Center post goes to positive battery/board.

    So, if all else fails check that again. Then try plugging your charger in. If you rc port is wired like this, the saber would work initially. When you put in a kill key, it disconnects from battery instead of board. so when you plug in a charger, the charge is sending its signal to your board but can't reach your battery.... double check that.

    Tom

    "Let the past die."

  9. #19

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    I purchased a universal charger. Once it was fully charged, the sound issue is no longer there.

  10. #20

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    Hell yeah! Congrats uncle!!!!!!!! Glad you got it fixed, hate that you were without MPP over a charger! Get a volt meter if you're gonna keep at this. They are worth their weight in gold!

    Tom

    "Let the past die."

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