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Thread: Sound issue

  1. #1

    Default Sound issue

    I have had the saber working for a few days. Today, after a minute of it running, it makes a loud static sound. Not like a loose wire sound, but an issue maybe coming from the board. Could this be an issue with an LED resistor? I have an NBv4 with a tri-Cree deep red and a base speaker. Thoughts?

  2. #2
    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
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    I would start by making sure the battery is fully charged.
    Tim
    The Custom Saber Shop

  3. #3

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    what the big man said!

    "Let the past die."

  4. #4

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    Sounds good. I will give it a shot tonight. Thank you!

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Tilmon View Post
    what the big man said!


    Thank you!

  6. #6

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    It did not work. After it is on, the sound starts again. If I shut it off and turn it back on, it is there. I am leaning towards a resistor issue since my resistors for my red get hot. I do have a video for it, but I cannot attach it.

  7. #7

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    Anytime I have issues like this, the first strike I make is re-formatting the micro SD card, and then re-writing the files on there. If your board is reading a file and hits a hiccup, it might get confused and send screwy signals to speaker. Do that first. Second, check continuity on speaker wires from board to speaker with volt meter, make sure tone/reading is steady. Third, make sure there is no loose metal shavings on the speaker drum. Those bass speakers have heavy magnets that attract loose screws, shavings, etc. Those, if on/in the speaker can cause static. If that fails, try gently touching the shiny metal portion of the speaker membrane while its running. Does the static go away? If so, you have a ripped membrane on your speaker and need to replace. I have had this occur on a bass speaker. When I was seating speaker in the mount, it slipped of the credit card I was using to seat it, and membrane was damaged. Self-imposed. It happens when you're learning.

    If those aren't the issue, then look at your wiring. For DR diode, you should have used a 1.2 ohm 3 watt resistor from TCSS. Did you order resistors from the internet? If they are Chinese or Mexican they could be no good. I ordered a batch from amazon that were made in mexico, and they were no good, heated up, and didn't provide proper resitance. Order TCSS resistors or from a more reputable source, and replace that resistor. Do you have a single LED or a tri-cree? If you have more than one DR diode like in a tri cree, each diode needs to be individually resistored! They put out a bit of heat, but shouldn't be getting "hot". That's not right. Its ok for them to put out a little heat, but if they are hot, there is something amiss there.

    Lastly, there could be some kind of loose solder joint on the amp on the board. There are folks available via facebook and other forums, like Erv Plecter (if you're using a plecter board) that can walk you through diagnosing that. Start simple first.

    Last night, as I was firing my new saber, everytime I went to power it off, it went silent and just quick shut off, like there was a short when I touched the button. It would re-fire and work just fine, until I went to shut it off. When I fired it up in MOTG, it didn't play retraction sound when powering off, and just quick shut down...which isn't normal. Thought a had a short in my switch. Tore all that apart, everything clean, no short. Thought about it, then went back to simple. Pulled the SD card out to wipe it. Went back into my font files and poweroff was named wrong. Thus the board didn't recognize a poweroff .wav for that soundfont, which is why it was doing what it was doing. The board basically computed: no sound off font, nothing to play, kill saber instantly when switch is activated. It did precisely what it was programmed to do, and all I had to do to fix it was to rename the poweroff file correctly in that font. Re-write my SD card, and oilah! It works like its supposed to. That was my error, not an error in the sound board, sd, plecter, TCSS. Minor crap like your situation and mine happen all the time, and part of the fun of this is learning to diagnose what is going wrong and why. I hope you get it fixed, keep us updated.

    Tom

    "Let the past die."

  8. #8

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    I got everything from CSS. I will dig further.
    The chassis with the kill switch is very tight in the hilt. I will check some wiring and order new resistors for the red.

  9. #9

  10. #10

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    I will be taking it apart and re doing the wires. Now, it will not come on. I did charge the battery yesterday with no change. I am wondering if something is wrong with the board.

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