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Thread: graflex 2.0 chassie

  1. #1

    Default graflex 2.0 chassie

    hi all

    dose any one know what chassis i can use for the graflex 2.0 using a Crystal focus 8 and 7.4v Li-ion 1400mAh 18500 Battery Pack with the potential crystal chamber
    also i need one for my prop phoenix cross guard hilt
    any suggestions?

    thanks
    K

  2. #2

    Default

    TCSS makes chassis disks for the Graflex 2.0 kit. I CF/CEX and a 7.4 cell with a crystal chamber might be asking a bit much out of a 2.0. If you were going to forego the crystal chamber you could probably get all of that to fit. Basically, you need to buy some chassis disks, speaker holder, battery pack, and boards and play around with building a chassis system. There isn't a pre-built chassis (per se) on TCSS, except for their 3D printed ones, and I don't know anything about them yet.

    When I am building a chassis, I order a bunch of disks, spacers, etc. and mess around with it all until I get something I like that works. I just modified my MHS Saber chassis by putting the recharge port in the chassis. My old RC port was on the outside of the saber, and the internal cram fu kept causing issues on the RC Port because it was the recipient of the cram fu against it. Of course, then I had to buy a new hilt, and went with a slotted one versus the plain one that I had on there before to get rid of the holes. While I had it apart, I added a real quartz crystal in my hand made brass chamber. I put a new switch that matched the saber more closely. You see, that is what happens.

    Your own limited by your imagination with the chassis disks, its like legos.

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  3. #3

    Default

    Thank you for your help Tom greatly appropriated it.

  4. #4

    Default

    measure the ID of your phoenix crossguard hilt and see if you can find TCSS disks that work. You can sand them down, they're made from plexiglass. You can also cut your own if you're creative with a dremel and plexiglass with a rotary cutter, but that can get messy. The laser cutters that TCSS use are very neat and tidy. Their disks are spot on clean. Genius. My future sabers plan is to start getting really crazy with internal custom chassis with TCSS disks. I'm kind of over the 3D printed chassis, because they're generic, and not very creative. They helped me to expedite my building initially, and they're good for some applications, but for a saber to be really unique, sturdy, and prettier on the inside than outside, a good hand-built chassis with these disks (and some greeblies from home crepot) always looks awesome. Some of these guys on here, like Greenie/Chasm/Etc. are really creative/inspirational with their chassis, and I'm jealous. Chassis systems are my new concentration and focus. I have the soldering/wiring down. Now, I need to learn to make them awesome on the inside. My Mako chassis was easy to build, and I think it looks great. The only thing I don't like about that saber and chassis is that you have to slide the chassis in and out of the saber with wire cram fu. I have said this in my other threads due to my experience with my Kylo sabers on 501st troops. I have to change batteries sometimes 2-4 times during long troops to keep my saber going. All that shuttling in and out of batteries stresses the wires on a cram fu chassis system. Ideally, a perfect chassis system contains all your internals, and the visible hilt goes on over your chassis system, and your wires never get cram-fu or stuffed, except when you are routing the chassis on initial build. That is why I re-built my Kylo BS saber with the internal pipe chassis. TCSS disks might have worked there as well, and I may try that in the future. I got this advice early on in these forums and ignored it, because I didn't understand the disks. There are so many types of them, so that you can do so many things with them in your own unique ways. I'm now going back and heeding this advice on future personal builds.

    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

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