MPP 2.0 AV switch

[Uncle67]

This is my first build. I am building an ESB Darth Vader saber using the Tri-Cree and an NBv4. I may get some help locally, but I am trying to do this as much as possible before I do.
The switch that comes with the kit, should that not be a latching? It clicks when pressed. The ohm meter is either always on (top to bottom connections) or it only comes on when I hold the button down (left to right).

Guidance would be appreciated.

[darth_chasm]

Welcome to the forums.

The switch is a momentary switch which will work with any of the plecter soundboards. You’ll want to wire opposing leads (left to right as you called it).

[Tom Tilmon]

That is correct. There are 4 legs, and only 2 are used to wire the switch. The other 2 are connected to each other. When the switch is not depressed, and you measure continuity via "ohms meter" on your volt meter. The 2 legs where you have no continuity when the switch is not depressed are the legs you solder wires to. There are several options here. wire both wires to one side, or diagonal opposing sides. If you solder your switch wires to the legs that have continuity when the switch is not depressed, you are only wiring one leg of your switch, and it will not function properly, its like soldering your switch wires to each other to form a constant loop. Remember that a switch is used to interrupt a loop of electricity....either permanently like a latching switch, or temporarily like a momentary switch. Most of the saber boards are designed to work optimally with momentary switches. That is switches that only briefly interrupt the flow. The boards interpret this interruption from the momentary switches as a signal that they need to react to. The boards can also differentiate between a tap (short depression) and a press (long depression) of a momentary switch, and the reaction of the board can be programmed to deal with those different momentary switch actions. For instance, to allow for saber off, a long depress on the main button will cause the saber to turn off. Scrolling through the "Mute on the GO" MOTG on the NBIV is done by depressing the momentary switch through 2 beeps to get through to the next programmed sound font folder. If you let go of the switch after the MOTG beep, the saber will ignite in mute. These actions aren't possible with latching switches. Latching switches are exactly that, they latch the circuit open or closed.

So, if you are using the NBIV on your MPP, the momentary switch that clicks is the appropriate switch to use inside of the base/black button. You will probably need to add some material or adjust the height of the actual button on the tactile switch on the MPP to get it to work properly. How it comes from Korbanth did not work in my set up. When the button was installed with the momentary switch, it would not depress, because there was no room for it to travel. This required some sanding/re-working of the button, and eventually the addition of some stuffing inside of the plastic button hat to get it to function properly. When you get all of those correct, and assemble (mock up assembly). The button when depressed will actuate the momentary switch beneath of it, and you'll feel that typical "tactile" click. This is why that particular type of switch is called a "tactile" switch, because you can feel it click. Tactile means touch. Then the button on your MPP will work properly to depress the tactile switch, and allow it to reset. Now that you have engineered the switch and the switch hat, you will be ready to wire your switch as DC and I have described above. The NBIV manual describes one switch leg to GND, and the other to SW on the NBIV. If you do all of the above correctly, along with soldering your LED, Battery, and Speaker wires appropriately; your NBIV will come to life and amaze you!!! Good luck with you MPP. I love mine, it is an awesome saber for Vader lovers! I'm attaching my build video. Its really long, but shows how I solved a bunch of issues. I did not use the factory switch that you are using. I used clamp switches. I did; however, engineer the factory switch and install it so that it actually activated when you pushed it, but it is a faux switch.





Tom

[Uncle67]

I just realized that I renamed the volt meter. I am currently a little medicated because of flu symptoms. I was trying to say I was testing using the ohm setting.
Your information is awesome. Thank you. That explains so much about the switch. I really do appreciate it. I also learned from it.

I did notice that the switch would not always engage. However, I did not have any wires under it at this time.

This is my first build. I continue to learn and look forward to the next build. I have not worked with wires in 12 years. I work in the medical field and deal mostly with radiology and needles. Thank you again for your guidance. I do appreciate it.

[Uncle67]

I like your video!

Resistors. I have deep red for two main and blue for the flash on clash. I currently have two 2 ohm/1 watt for my red and have a 0.5 ohm/3 watt for my blue. This was directed to me from someone else. If I do the math for the red, I should have a 1.5 watt for the red. The math ends up with a 1.5 ohm and 1.5 watt. am I ok or do I need to find a different one? What I have came from CSS.

[Tom Tilmon]

I use 1.2 ohm 3w on each red diode. I used .47 ohm on blues with NBIV for stability. My graflex has NBIV. Great little board. It works very, very good. My MPP has Igniter2 in it. Its off the hook sick what it can do, it has evolved a great deal since that video. My sabers always get better with time, and tinkering. I'm never happy with them. That is why this hobby is so addictive. You learn new things on every build, and figure out ways where you could have made your previous builds better. Then you can't afford another saber, so you tear open your old one to "fix" what you did wrong. Its very addictive, this hobby. I'm sure Tim loves me, I pay his mortgage each month with my paychecks. He just asked me to direct deposit my paycheck with TCSS, and I'm seriously contemplating that, particularly if he can give me some good deals!

Take your time working on that switch and the plastic button (switch hat). Get it working properly before you wire it. I tinkered with mine for a day, and never even wired it. I'm sorry I didn't video all of that. A little sanding, a little adjusting, cramming stuff in the inside of the black plastic button so the travel was right. In the end, when you assemble it in the base (the thumb release assembly), and attach it into the saber, when you push the black button down, you hear a click, and it resets so you can activate it over and over again. If it doesn't do that, you have more work to do to free up the button, and to get the hat sitting properly on the button. Look how the hat and tactile switch fit each other, and activate it while not in the housing. That is how it must operate in the housing installed on the saber. It needs some minor work, very small adjustments, then check again. Once it works properly, you are ready to wire it, and your wires can run in the channel in the core piece. My install was a bit of a mess because of the clamp card switches. I made my life more difficult. Using the factory switch and a NBIV should be relatively easy.

Wiring those tactile switches:


Tom

[Uncle67]

Thanks. I did finish it. Now I am going to re-doit. The switch is a pain. I found a screw that was stripped. I also do not like how the retention screw is for looks and the actual retention is by two tiny screws. The chassis is annoying. I had to pull out my Dremel to get the wires from the battery to fit. I am also ordering 28AWG and two better resistors. The two for my deep red get very hot.

This is addicting. Once I got the basics down, next one will be easy. I just need another place to work on these besides my kitchen table. If my wife was home when I did this, she may kill me.

[Tom Tilmon]

Yeah, I do a lot of adjusting and re-working. I have mine just about perfect right now. TCSS resistors have never let me down. They have a good vendor. I usually order way more than I need, and am building up stock/inventory of them. Anything bigger than 28 AWG can be difficult in some of these tight builds. I'm using 30. If you have cramfu, that is a chassis that slides in and out, you're better off using 28. 30 is too fragile for that constant shuttling of chassis in and out of the hilt. Here lately on most of my builds, I'm trying to use solid-state chassis that stay firm in the saber head, so that no wires move around during battery changes, crystal chamber expose, etc. It is a lot of fun, and you will find yourself constantly re-engineering these things. Right now, I have 4 builds going on at my workbench, and another big one with new technology on the planning board. One of my current 4 builds, is a complete re-do of my first MHS saber to make it better, and I already am unhappy with it, so some day, I'll tear it apart and make it right. But, its current state will work just fine.

Tom