Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: partslist for custom build/ first build

  1. #1

    Default partslist for custom build/ first build

    Thanks in advance for checking this out.

    So on taking the advice that I have seen on the forum here I am thinking of building the chassis first and figuring out the outside later. I read that the pico crumble sits nicely in the NB chassis disc, so I used those and I want to make it pretty compact as its for a small 6 year old girl so i used the shorter 18500 battery. Because It is going to be styled somewhat off of Ahsoka's sabers from clone wars, I am going to have to machine the blade holder I think. Is there a way to make the chassis go from 1.25" to 1"id towards the end to hold the led in place?

    Here is the wishlist from the store.

    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Vi...2-d002bc69344a


    Thanks,

    Sevrin

  2. #2

    Default

    i would suggest a RGB Led. I know its a little harder to wire up- (you are wiring 3 less as opposed to 1)... but- one of the cool things with that saber is the ability to have 3 color profiles..... just my 2 cents. Im working on one for my 7 year old with a NB4- i will post a pic when I'm done.

  3. #3

    Default

    If i switched to the RGB would I need to switch the lens as well? my concern is keeping it small as the end of the hilt will be only a 1" id? if i did switch, which would you recco? luxeon or the cree?

  4. #4

    Default

    Yeah you should use the appropriate lens, the one with the 3 legs (and 3 focus pools).... I believe the Cree is conserved superior to the luxeon. Either should be fine for what you are doing. As far as the diameter... I have a couple single leds, but funny, haven't built anything with them. They appear to be of similar size, however I haven't stacked them on top of each other to compare. Make sure you get the proper resistors as well.... don't want to blow the leds.

  5. #5

    Default

    Updated the list with the tri cree rgb

  6. #6

    Default

    don't forget your resistors- i would get some all thread- you don't need the single lens holder...... might want a rice port- those boards take advantage of it. Also....... those chassis disks are made for use inside MHS material..... not sure what the fit will be like if you put it in something not from the store.

  7. #7

    Default

    I'm sure you know, but it looks like you forgot the threaded rods on your list. Also, buy more sizes and quantity of the brass spacers than you think you need. Things can go "off script" when you start building the chassis. Also, you will probably want some metal chassis discs to be the end of the chassis. Not sure which speaker holder that is, but if it is the one that slides internally without locking itself, you will need a metal disc to lock the chassis in place. Or at least to serve as a solid endcap.

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Avidgrant View Post
    don't forget your resistors- i would get some all thread- you don't need the single lens holder...... might want a rice port- those boards take advantage of it. Also....... those chassis disks are made for use inside MHS material..... not sure what the fit will be like if you put it in something not from the store.
    Thanks Avidgrant, (are you an editor by chance?) How does the RICE port fit into the design? Is it just an interface or does it also handle charging? does it require another hole in the hilt or it something that requires that you remove the chassis to access? Thanks for your time and experience, and I am not ignoring you on the resistors, I just haven't had a chance to calculate what ones I need, I had originally that the board handled that aspect, so good thing you caught that.

  9. #9

    Default

    Hey Rampant, I added some more spacers, some rods and changed the speaker holder. I think you were right, it was the one that slid into place but i replaced it with the one that is threaded. would that be stable enough to serve as the endcap or do i still need a disc for that side?
    Quote Originally Posted by Rampant View Post
    I'm sure you know, but it looks like you forgot the threaded rods on your list. Also, buy more sizes and quantity of the brass spacers than you think you need. Things can go "off script" when you start building the chassis. Also, you will probably want some metal chassis discs to be the end of the chassis. Not sure which speaker holder that is, but if it is the one that slides internally without locking itself, you will need a metal disc to lock the chassis in place. Or at least to serve as a solid endcap.

  10. #10

    Default

    Rice can be another port (on the hilt - or hidden internally). It has nothing to do with charging. You may want to investigate some of the switch boxes in the store. There are a few that have rice- and recharge (which would remove the need for that internal recharge disk) along with your activation buttons. Search on the forum for resistor calculations- lots of good info! And I am/have been an editor- yes.

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •