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Thread: Internal Chassis building

  1. #1

    Default Internal Chassis building

    So- it occurs to me that we spend a lot of time looking at the outside of the saber- and they are all very cool, but a lot of the magic happens on the inside.... now some people- Madcow- Greenie- and a number of others- all- have taken internal chassis building to a whole new level.... i am truly envious- you guys build some really amazing things. But for all the rest of us schlubs (and i mean no disrespect- and include myself)- It would be nice for us to share how we are building these magical internal sleds/chassis- see how others are optimizing the limited internal space in their sabers- engaging in the art of Cram-FU- etc. I know i could use some help...... i always seem to have quite a bit of excess wire left over. I have recently been using 3 and 4 wire quick connectors (molex) to help with final assembly.... but still seem to be "over-wiring".

  2. #2

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    I too am interested in this type of discussion!

  3. #3

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    One of the keys is the actual design of the saber itself. Quick disconnects can be useful in the right situations, and they can be space hogs in others. Also the installation sequence is also a HUGE factor.
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  4. #4
    Sith Warrior darth_chasm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    Also the installation sequence is also a HUGE factor.
    Very true! Each one is different.
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  5. #5

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    Couldn't agree more.... thus why I felt like this was an important topic to discuss. Hell- it could even have its own main topic with sub-topics like- mhs- no structural mods. Mhs w /structural mods . Totally custom, etc.... it's a pretty deep subject... just figured there is a wealth of knowledge that would be helpful for a lot of us.

  6. #6

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    Quick disconnects can make saber assembly easier but for cram fu, they are not your friend.
    Sharing power can reduce wiring for example: taking one positive to a tri led and linking across on the pad. Wiring an accent led to the speaker or across the recharge port (depending on it's required function).
    Finding a nice piece of tubing, ally, copper, brass or painted PVC to fit the MHS ID is a good start. That's where a lathe comes in real handy (but not essential). Salvaged/found parts can be used to give that mechanical/technical look and small telescoping tubing can be used for hiding wiring and 'decoration' at the same time. I've hidden resistors within such tubing to save space.
    As FJK says, saber design and order of assembly are key factors and deciding how much chassis is to be revealed.
    This is a good subject that I think we could all learn from.

    Greenie

  7. #7

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    I agree. Complex build projects could be it's own sub-forum. Plenty of advanced things like:
    - consolidating wires
    - build order for maximum cram fu
    - advanced weathering/finishing techniques
    - etc...

    I am having a custom blade holder made now because I need to be able to attach my crystal chamber directly to it. When I do the build log, I will discuss why I had to go the custom BH route, and some of the other challenges with a build that does not fit the normal mold.

    There are plenty of us who are just building sabers for ourselves, but would like to learn more advanced ways to do things.

  8. #8

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    Greenie- "Sharing power can reduce wiring for example: taking one positive to a tri led and linking across on the pad. Wiring an accent led to the speaker or across the recharge port (depending on it's required function). "-

    wait- what now?

    Darth Nurse- "I am having a custom blade holder made now because I need to be able to attach my crystal chamber directly to it. When I do the build log, I will discuss why I had to go the custom BH route, and some of the other challenges with a build that does not fit the normal mold. "

    SOUNDS AWESOME..... pics when you get it please.....

  9. #9

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    I have begun to build all my leds like this so i can make them interchangeable (on my NB3 sabers) GG/w- RBRB/W or RR/W.
    Thoughts? think i can get it smaller? Tips? Suggestions?
    I realize i could have done a 3 connect as opposed to a 4- but thats what i had....


    IMG_5972.jpg

  10. #10

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    also- here is a different saber i tried to build in a somewhat modular fashion..... its pretty ugly..... it was the first one... these are all the internals.

    Screen Shot 2017-08-22 at 9.29.43 AM.jpg
    Last edited by Avidgrant; 08-22-2017 at 08:38 AM.

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