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Thread: NB v4 ledstring config

  1. #11

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    L1 and L2 on bisquit should be bridged to negative on strip. L3 feeds the data line with 330-470 ohm resistor between board and strip. positive from battery or board is other remaining hook up on strip. I'll be using adafruit strips, and yes, they are expensive. For my Kylo, I'm looking at 180 bucks in strips. double sided full for main blade (2 strips) and an additional strip to build double sided quillions.

    I'm not sure why yours is doing this, I hear the MOTG beep of the NBIV, did you change all your configs?

    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  2. #12

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    $180! Ouch! We just can’t help ourselves can we.

    I desoldered the first 2 LEDs on each side and it made no difference so I’m assuming it’s not a fried pixel. Actually when I disconnect the data line altogether it’s the same problem, the LEDs are a pinky colour with a few faint green/blue ones mixed in for good measure and it’s always on. When I swap out a short strip with only 10 LEDs they’re bright white which makes me think it’s either a power (current load) issue or a wiring one. Or the cheap strips are faulty.

    The manual for the NB says if you dont want the power saving function then you can return the -ve from the strip to the main -ve on the board but don’t know if returning it to L1 only would make a difference. I was hoping to avoid desoldering the NB but it might be worth a try.

    I’ve tried 3 different configurations for ls0 and ls1 (14/28 and 13/26) but haven’t experimented outside these. It’s on my list!

  3. #13

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    Just to be sure, did you change the ledstrip parameter to the #of leds you have ? It seems like you're still in high power led mode not strip mode based on the leds going full tilt whitish.

  4. #14

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    Yeah, I changed the ledstrip to 127 (although does it really matter if it’s higher? The manual says it doesn’t matter if you have fewer pixels than the parameter)
    Going to change a few things when I’m next off work to see if it makes a difference. There’s still the crackly speaker so I’ll probably need to change the battery.

  5. #15

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    Hmmm. There's got to be a wiring problem somewhere. I couldn't tell from the video but do you have a killkey? Are you sure you wired the recharge port correctly? it's odd that the leds are on before you press the activation switch. It seems like you have the right strip parameters, which leads me to believe you miswired it somehow. From my testing you don't have to have the ledstrip exactly equal to led #.
    Last edited by Meatsweats; 10-02-2017 at 05:17 PM. Reason: Da.

  6. #16

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    Turn out it was the ****ty LED strips I bought. Buy cheap buy twice I suppose. The replacement ones I got from KR Sabers in the UK have lit up perfectly!

  7. #17

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    I had really good luck with a set I got on eBay for ~20 CAD each. They’re sturdy, have gotten bent to hell and gone during install (I tried to feed the strips into the blade with too much foam. Forcing it kinked the strips pretty badly but to no ill effect.) The only problem I have is shadowing along the sides of the strip but it’s not a showstopper. The brightness and evenness of the blade is worth it.

    http://www.ebay.ca/itm/WS2812B-5050-...9buHzMPoM_BHzg

    https://imgur.com/gallery/tFqrb
    https://youtube.com/watch?v=3tCbJW5uNaU
    https://youtube.com/watch?v=w1hRzGW0LZI
    https://youtube.com/watch?v=T-AxHUoMorA
    Last edited by SA22C; 10-23-2017 at 12:35 AM.

  8. #18

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    Looks good! Did you speed up the scroll for the green and blue? What values did you go for?

  9. #19

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    I did. Using the auto-sense really didn't seem to match well for those, for whatever reason.

    The Green ROTJ Luke uses qon=200
    The Arctic Blue ESB Luke uses qon=400,qoff=450
    The Red R1 Vader uses qon=500 for that super-ominous slow extend.

    Here's the blade in bright near-daylight.



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