Wiring Check (Prizm v5.1)

[IdleSpoon]

Hey all,

Came here for a wiring check. Below is my wiring diagram; I'm using a Prizm 5.1 soundboard. Let me know if there's anything I should change.

wiring_diagram_saber.jpg

Edit: Link to full-res: http://imgur.com/a/dQWC2

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

There should only be one (+) and one (-) wire going to the power pads on the board (from the recharge port). The rest looked ok.

[IdleSpoon]

There should only be one (+) and one (-) wire going to the power pads on the board (from the recharge port). The rest looked ok.

Appreciate the advice -- maybe I'm a bit confused from the Prizm v5.1 manual. On page 12, it refers to what I'm talking about. Maybe you could clear that up.

[Tom Tilmon]

The recharge port has 3 legs, a positive and 2 negatives. One of the negative legs will be interrupted when a kill key is inserted or a charger plugged into it. The purpose of this is to cutoff the circuit supplying the board while a charger is plugged in to charge a battery. In your diagram, you show direct connections from battery negative to board. Your board negative should go straight to the cutoff leg on the rc port. Its usually the leg stamped with switchcraft logo if you're buying from TCSS. Double check with voltmeter/charger to make sure. The battery negative goes to the continuous circuit negative leg on the recharge port, the one that doesn't get cutoff when you put the kill key in. It is a direct connection. There should be no other leads coming off your battery negative. You don't want recharger voltage getting pumped into your board, you'll fry it, or debrain it. Not good.

You also show 2 positive leads from battery going to board. There should be 2 red wires coming off the positive leg on recharge port. One goes to the battery positive, and the other goes to the board. Depending upon where your recharge port is located, you could also common up the LED Positive Wire (which you have already commoned up positive feeding each LED) into the positive recharge port wire going to your board. This way, there would only be one positive wire to solder onto the board. Just make sure the junction/soldered connection isn't in your cram fu section. Solder joints don't get along well with cram fu!

I assume you're referring to this page:

Which is meant as a rough guide, and not a wiring diagram. It would really help if you watched this video from madcow:

He can explain better what I'm trying to convey in words. Other than that issue, I'm not familiar with RICE; however, if FJK is alright with it, I'm sure its probably ok. I've watched some of his stream builds, and he seems to know what he is doing.

Just make sure to double check that your negative leg that gets cutoff is the one you wire direct to the board. Think of the recharge port also as a wire junction/power supply location. Its that, a switch, and a recharge port. A RC Port is a lot of things. If you watch madcow's video, it should all be much clearer. I use a white wire on cutoff leg to board. Black wire on continuous negative. I then run 2 positive wires off positive RC Port leg. One to battery, and one to board. Good luck!


Tom

[IdleSpoon]

The recharge port has 3 legs, a positive and 2 negatives. One of the negative legs will be interrupted when a kill key is inserted or a charger plugged into it. The purpose of this is to cutoff the circuit supplying the board while a charger is plugged in to charge a battery. In your diagram, you show direct connections from battery negative to board. Your board negative should go straight to the cutoff leg on the rc port. Its usually the leg stamped with switchcraft logo if you're buying from TCSS. Double check with voltmeter/charger to make sure. The battery negative goes to the continuous circuit negative leg on the recharge port, the one that doesn't get cutoff when you put the kill key in. It is a direct connection. There should be no other leads coming off your battery negative. You don't want recharger voltage getting pumped into your board, you'll fry it, or debrain it. Not good.

You also show 2 positive leads from battery going to board. There should be 2 red wires coming off the positive leg on recharge port. One goes to the battery positive, and the other goes to the board. Depending upon where your recharge port is located, you could also common up the LED Positive Wire (which you have already commoned up positive feeding each LED) into the positive recharge port wire going to your board. This way, there would only be one positive wire to solder onto the board. Just make sure the junction/soldered connection isn't in your cram fu section. Solder joints don't get along well with cram fu!

Tom

Fantastic! Thanks for that. And the R.I.C.E. connector negative (-) should still be going to the battery negative (-), correct?

[Tom Tilmon]

I am not familiar with RICE, as I have not yet wired one. I refer you to others who may know. I also upgraded/edited my original post with a lot more information, including a video about RC Ports from Madcow. I really think you need to watch his video! It would help you wrap your head around the RC Port.

Tom

[Tom Tilmon]

According to the Prizm 5.1 manual on P. 60, it does indicate the negative from rice port goes to the negative on the battery. So again, depending upon where your RICE port will be, you could common that wire up with the wire running from RC Port to the Battery. you could wire it to the same post on the recharge port as your battery negative. Or you could wire it direct to battery negative. 6 of one, half dozen of the other. No matter which of those options you choose to use, you arrive at the same place. I would say it depends upon your hilt/chassis and RICE/RC Port/Battery locations. Make a decision that is most wire efficient.

Prizm manual states there on P. 60, "While it's possible to wire the sleeve (GND) wire to the GND pad of the board, we recommend to connect it to the battery pack negative and not to the board negative to avoid a kill key / recharge port bypass in the case a metal female jack is used. Prefer a female jack with a plastic housing. "

So, I guess they're trying to encourage you to go straight to battery if you have a metal jack housing. If you have a plastic housing? I guess you can run your negative wire to either the board or the cutoff leg on RC Port? I'm not sure, its not really clear.

Tom

[IdleSpoon]

According to the Prizm 5.1 manual on P. 60, it does indicate the negative from rice port goes to the negative on the battery. So again, depending upon where your RICE port will be, you could common that wire up with the wire running from RC Port to the Battery. you could wire it to the same post on the recharge port as your battery negative. Or you could wire it direct to battery negative. 6 of one, half dozen of the other. No matter which of those options you choose to use, you arrive at the same place. I would say it depends upon your hilt/chassis and RICE/RC Port/Battery locations. Make a decision that is most wire efficient.

Prizm manual states there on P. 60, "While it's possible to wire the sleeve (GND) wire to the GND pad of the board, we recommend to connect it to the battery pack negative and not to the board negative to avoid a kill key / recharge port bypass in the case a metal female jack is used. Prefer a female jack with a plastic housing. "

So, I guess they're trying to encourage you to go straight to battery if you have a metal jack housing. If you have a plastic housing? I guess you can run your negative wire to either the board or the cutoff leg on RC Port? I'm not sure, its not really clear.

Tom

Thanks, Tom. I'll follow your advice. I also appreciate the new diagram that you drew up -- I'll be referring to it often. Thanks again!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Ideally, you wire the RICE ground to either the battery (-), or more commonly, the battery (-) of the recharge port. Anywhere else is mostly asking for trouble.

Other than that issue, I'm not familiar with RICE; however, if FJK is alright with it, I'm sure its probably ok. I've watched some of his stream builds, and he seems to know what he is doing.

After about 10 years, I should certainly hope so...

[KongoBongo]

Hey guys. As I was trying to find a solution to my problem I found this thread. So I hope it's ok if I ask my question on the same post as it's along the same lines.

I wired my red accent light from my anti-vandal switch as per the diagram on page 29 of the prizm user's manual. I used a Dynaohm resistor on the positive leg with the + end of the resistor closest to the switch. Well, I burned out the accet light... So before I reorder I want to make sure I get it right. Is the dynaohm sufficent for a red accent? And did i orient the resistor correctly with it being on the positive side? The diagram in this thread looks like it's on the negative.

Thanks for any help.