Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: Wiring Advice Needed for Crystal Focus V8 Setup

  1. #1
    JTP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    United States of America
    Posts
    51

    Default Wiring Advice Needed for Crystal Focus V8 Setup

    Hello friends,

    I'm moving on to my MKII saber now and I've upgraded from NB to CF for this one. This is both exciting and challenging as I'm learning a new board from scratch. I've done my research here on the forums and read the manual cover to cover a few dozen times but I still find myself with a few questions.

    My main question refers to how to wire the AV switches. This is probably very simple to most people but I've seen conflicting wire diagrams for the positive LED wire and its gotten me a bit bamboozled. If you look in the attachments, (using Imgur for links: http://imgur.com/a/N56HA) you'll see two wiring diagrams created by different users of this forum. What I notice is that the first diagram has the LED Pos. lines (with resistors) going toward the accent pads in the middle/right of the board. In the second picture however, the LED Pos line is being soldered to a pad located up and to the left from the Main, Accent and GRND Pads. The second setup was going to be what I planned on doing, wiring the LED pos from both of my switches in parallel and soldering to that pad to the upper left.

    My question is, are there any benefit to using one pad more than the other that I'm missing in the manual? For clarification, I want the LEDs of my switches to be on at all times unless the kill-key is inserted. That way it looks really nice on display or on my belt at conventions.

    Other than that, I'm pretty comfortable with the rest of my personal wiring diagram. I was planning on doing a Crystal Chamber for this one but I simply ran out of room due to that 7.4V battery (I know there's a hack but I don't want to sacrifice power).

    Thanks for any and all replies!
    MTFBWY
    Darjetii, chaabar te genet jetiise, kaysh tion'ad taylir te vorpan kal. Kaysh oya'karir gar jii. Kyr'am cuyir gebbar de.

  2. #2

    Default

    The second diagram uses the 3.3V pad (which is on all the time once the kill key is pulled - which is what you described you wanted). If you are using 2 AV switches with LEDs in them, the Color Extender should also have a 3.3V pad on it that you can use for the other switch, instead of trying to vampire-wire everything to that one 3.3V pad.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  3. #3
    JTP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    United States of America
    Posts
    51

    Default

    That's good to know! Would that happen to be this pad here? http://imgur.com/a/Lr1xU
    Darjetii, chaabar te genet jetiise, kaysh tion'ad taylir te vorpan kal. Kaysh oya'karir gar jii. Kyr'am cuyir gebbar de.

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JTP View Post
    That's good to know! Would that happen to be this pad here? http://imgur.com/a/Lr1xU
    Mmmmmhmmmm.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •