Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 25

Thread: Wiring diagram for a NBV4 with extender?

  1. #1

    Default Wiring diagram for a NBV4 with extender?

    Hi guys,

    Finally got all the material (and time available, so I started the build.

    I did mount the LED and the inner frame, The battery is in and I did put together the recharge port; so now I have basically all the wires ready to connect the board.

    - Speaker wires
    - Activation button wires
    - Accent LED wires
    - main LED wires (3 + 1 for the ground, which I tied together So I have one wire coming in from the LED assembly)
    - Power wires coming from the recharge port.

    Connection should be straightforward, since I tie all the negative together, which goes to the negative pad of the board; speaker wires go to the speaker pads, the activation button to the activation pad, and the accent LED goes to the small pad in the middle of the board (the one marked for the accent LED in various diagrams, not the 3.3V pad, otherwise I need the kill key because that LED would suck up the battery even when the board is turned off)

    Now, from my understanding, the extender goes on the 3rd pad, which is the one used for the FOC feature; although I am not sure about how to connect it; does anyone have a pre-made working schematic that I can look at, to get an idea? Thanks!

  2. #2

    Default

    pxtendr delete.jpg

    Looks like negative and activation switch run through xtender from nbIV manual.

    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  3. #3

    Default

    I thought that diagram was wrong, when I was looking at the manual.
    Not sure why it has to go through the activation switch; I want to be sure that I do this right, since there is no turning back

  4. #4

    Default

    This is what I did plan; not sure if that's how it should be though...

    test.jpg

    In many examples, I see people setting up the positives together, instead of the negatives, which is weird to me. I am no hardware engineer but all the circuits that I have seen using Arduino for example, were showing that the signal is the positive.

    Maybe the NBV4 is different and does not carry any voltage on their pads, beside the power one? Althought this is also weird, since a pin can be either high or low; so this means either there is full current passing through it, or none (unless you have PWM pins).

    Trying to understand how this thing works

  5. #5

    Default

    The switch ground doesn't have to run through the power extender, it merely needs to return to the battery ground, which would be either on the battery/cell itself, the post on your recharge port if you have one, or through the ground on the PEx. Wiring it to the PEx may save you on space with your wiring, reducing the possibility of "spaghetti wiring" your saber.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  6. #6

    Default

    I see; I am not much into electronics; I mostly write programs for microcontrollers, leaving the wiring to the people that know that well

    Does my schematics works or do I have to change something? I did connect the switch to the same wire that goes from the ground of the extender, to the negative, so I think I am doing what you suggested.

  7. #7

    Default

    Update: I did wire up everything, and....the LED assembly does not power up.

    At this point I realize that the issue is in how the wiring has been done; the board power up no problems, although it won't power any of the LED; which means that either the extender is not working due to the wiring, or the issue is with how I did wire up the LED assembly.

    From readings on the board, the L1, L2 and L3 sadly do not carry the voltage; which is why my LED won't turn on. I did wire together all the negatives instead of the positives, thinking that the signal and the current was on the L pads, while it is not.

    At this point I have to take apart the whole thing and start from scratch; since I need to re-wire the LED from scratch, and use one wire for the positives and not the negatives. Also the extender and the wires are such a mess that I can't even close the case, which is disappointing. Expensive mistakes, but it was accounted for...

  8. #8

    Default

    The L pads on the board are the negatives for your leda. Those need to be separate as the board uses a common positive for the blade leds.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  9. #9

    Default

    Should have just followed the diagram in the manual.

    The "act" pad is usually connected to a red wire, because it senses voltage supplied by the Negative of the battery.

    Most microcontrollers work like that, so I'm not sure where the confusion is. It is programmed as an input.

    The LED (L1 and L2) pads are output from the onboard mosfets. They are controlled by PWM (or similiar) from the controller.

    The output on the L3 pad is simply a digital logic output (same signal to control mosfets).

    Erv was clever enough to make the L3 a digital output for the neopixels, while also able to control a Mosfet gate.

    When you have the power extender hooked up to the L3 pad, it then becomes a high powered output.

    Just follow the diagrams supplied by the manual, do the math as described by the manual, and you should have no issues.

    *edit: I realized that you can't have a digital logic also be a PWM , I actually have no idea what Plecter boards use as signals. Just know it works as the manual describes.
    Last edited by Whosle; 07-16-2017 at 09:08 AM.

  10. #10

    Default

    L pads are all cathode. Returns. Negative leg from each LED goes to pads. Positives can all common up to the + pad.

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •