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Thread: Tom's MPP 2.0

  1. #11

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    Full build video...its a long one. Hope it helps someone who is building the Korbanth MPP 2.0 from TCSS!!!!


    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  2. #12

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    Little tidbits of info. Chassis retention screw if you put one into the MPP, while using the Goth Sith Master Chassis, the switch wire channel within the threads is the right place. The chassis doesn't have anywhere else solid to drop one in outside of the threads, and you don't want to risk turning a set screw into your battery to lock in the chassis. The channel I cut in was ideal for clamp switch wire routing; however, I cut a V to my hole from the outer upper shroud, so that I can slide the upper shroud off without re-wiring the switches every time. You just hold the wires in the channel, and push the shroud over the channel while you hold the wires tight in the channel. The thumb release blade retention locks the blade into the hilt, but allows too much wiggle for my liking. I'll be looking to add an allen drive set screw for blade retention in the future to hold the blade a bit more snuggly. I don't like blade wiggle. You really do need to run true 30 gauge wires in this chassis. Some of my early wires were 30 on the inside, but more like 28 on the outside. While they worked, they definitely cramped available space. I didn't show it on video, but you can sneak 2 resistors between the battery and the forward crystal LED. I have both of my dR resistors in that battery space. It moves the LED module a tad further forward, because the battery isn't fully seated in the chassis; however, you still have plenty of blade depth against the module. I am planning on adding 4 more accent LED's over the board under the board cover. I got my ESB wires installed tonight, which was a bit of a pain. I kept the metal brackets in the plastic insert, and bent them in towards each other to make room for the wires, then once the wires were inserted, bent the brackets away from each other to crimp the wires in place on each side. It was a PITA. The only thing I don't like about the Korbanth MPP is the plastic insert in the core. I wish the entire core was machined out of aluminum. Also, last bit of advice. It does matter which way the plastic insert goes in. The 2 very tiny allen screws in the plastic piece are the holes the red wire goes into for ESB version. If you put it on backwards, you'll have blank plastic showing through the outer shroud with nowhere to put your wires. Happy MPP building, I had a blast, but if I do one again, I can do way better than this one. Enjoy! Tom aka megtooth sith, aka fpsn diver!

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  3. #13

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    Almost done, just need black clamp bars and modified clamp bolt with removed lever, and we're done!!!!!

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  4. #14

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    Fixed the clamp with a 10-32 allen bolt. Drilled a hole through the bolt big enough for a rivet tail. stuck the rivet tail through the hole, and superglued it in. Oilah! ESB MPP. All I need to do is either paint the bars black, or order black MPP Bars! Done.




    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

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